NV4500 Upgraded Replacement Transmission?

Well, I got back from Ohio a day early and decided to install the trans. I spent a few hours fabbing up a plate for my floor jack to be able to do it by myself. The hole in the plate is for the nub on the trans bottom to sit into. By installing the trans mount, it was able to drill two holes, engage with the plate, and not let the trans slide. The straps are just for extra safety.
I slid the trans under the truck and lifted it with my engine hoist through the passenger door. I was almost able to get it under on it's side without jacking the truck up. I ended up raising it a few inches on jack stands.. I then slid the jack under the trans and lowered it onto the jack. No major drama.
I did end up having to cut off the front lifting loop and beat the pinch weld about half way over. The real ***** is getting into the splines and pushing by yourself. I'd say an hour of jack/tilt/push/spin/cuss until it finally slipped all the way in. VERY happy to have that phase behind me.
Unfortunately, I didn't leave enough forward slot range in the crossmember and will have to do some more mods to it. I was about an inch short. Not a huge deal, just another slow down................

 

Pretty much my same procedure. Every time I think about pulling my transmission again I think about a lift. I even had my shop built with 12 foot walls to accomodate one but haven't pulled the trigger.

 

I agree Gary! My "workshop" only has a 10' ceiling. My "storage" shop has a 12' ceiling. I would like to buy a 4 post lift, but it would only work in the storage shop. I guess I could drag tools back and forth, but seems a pain. The good news is that I could put one Jeep up on the lift and have room under it to store another!!

 

Everything is buttoned up. Just waiting on the driveshafts to come back from the shop. I used an aftermarket shifter that does not interfere with the transfercase lever! I have not put the boots back on yet, because I wanted to test drive first and look/listen for a few miles. Hopefully done next week!
I tapped two holes into the crossmember for the exhaust pipe bracket. I had to lengthen my slots back into the crossmember to mount the trans.

 

Hi Guys,

FINALLY got my driveshafts back. Well, one of them! Two months and $400.00 for ONE shaft! Fing ridiculous! They are currently "looking for" my front driveshaft!!!!!!!! EVERY time I farm out any work I am severely disappointed. I could have shortened the rear driveshaft myself, but I also wanted it to be re-balanced. The balancing fee was $150.00 on it's own! I don't see any balance weights welded on either?? The new carrier bearing was $100.00. Luckily, I had put all new u-joints in the shaft last year.

Luckily, it fit and I was able to finally get back on the road. It was fun shifting through all of the gears. It will make towing my RV a more enjoyable experience. It will take me a little while to get comfortable with the new shift pattern. It seems like I have to really "throw it over" into reverse. I guess that's better than an accidental reverse engagement!

Just got a phone call from NAPA while I was typing. They found my front driveshaft! Now waiting on rebuild parts...............

Seabee

 

I feel your frustration. I've been waiting for a set of Coker vinatge wide whitewalls to install on a '54 Ford I've been restoring. I ordered them in Jan from Summit. The last delay notice said they would be here on the 7th of July. No tires, no response from Summit.

It took awhile to get used to the shift pattern for me too. You'll have it down before the summer is over.

 

Thanks Gary. Always good to hear from you!

 

Well, FINALLY got the front driveshaft back! $475.00!! That did include a new tube and complete rebuild with new joints, so I'm not as surprised with the $$. I need to install it and make sure all is well with the 4X4. I don't expect any issues.............

 

Completion of a project is always satisfying.

 

whats your update? I just saw this thread, as I don’t come over to the 2500 forums much anymore.
Way-back about 10 yrs ago, Tiny blew up her last automatic and when a shop I had been using had a 2006 G56 I got it installed. Aside from the normal auto-to-manual trauma, the t-case input didn’t match the G56 output, so the guy hybridized my t-case to front 2006/back half 1998 (the housing was a direct bolt-up splice, so that was nice).
Have had ZERO troubles with the new transmission, or the oddball t-case.

 

Everything is working great! I made a speed run up to Chicago to get a Jeep XJ and hauled it back at 80 MPH. The trans never got over 195 degrees at 90F ambient. I do have one Fast cooler on the 6 speed.
It has taken a little getting used to the new shift tower. The spring loading of the gates can throw me off a little sometimes, but all in good time. So far I am damn happy I did this.

 

@Seabee, Good to see you've got it back up and running! Edit you sig line to reflect the 6spd instead of 5spd. It'll draw some attention if others notice and might ask how you've got a 6spd in there! Enjoy that truck!

 

Good job! I hope you're liking the new transmission.

Btw. They fixed the oiling issue with the NV5600 years ago by overfilling it.

G56 cases are also known to crack when really high torque is applied. Not an issue for most though.

 

Um, no.

And I’ve not heard of the G56 case issue you spoke of.

 

I believe it is Standard Transmission in FT. Worth who do a modification to the NV5600 for better oiling of the 6th gear. There was an article about it from Joe a few years ago.

I've heard about the G56 case, in fact there was a girdle made for it (maybe still is). It was for the super high HP competition applications.

 

I'm considering a transmission upgrade like that too. Had a local shop do my 5th ring and he made me feel all warm and fuzzy about how his fix would last forever..Came off pulling my camper home last week 60 mi from home I hit the hazards and did 45 the whole way.. Obviously my shaft os worn beyond repair that will last long. It's my daily so I have to have it fixed for now as long as it will last. But I'd like to do a bread box or maybe even a road ranger. It's alot of wrenching but when done that's it no more trouble and a much more inputable and controllable drive train.

 

Um, YES!

Just because you haven't heard of it doesn't mean it's not true. Do some research.
That said, unless you're putting down huge power, it "shouldn't" be an issue.

 

My 97 just had its 2nd NV4500 failure on Black Friday while pulling my 5th wheel camper to relative's place for a late Thanksgiving. This NV4500 was purchased as "all new everything with ALL upgrades" including fully splined mainshaft, 5th gear nut fix. and 1-3/8" input shaft. It has been a disappointing investment since the day I installed it (with a new SB clutch and freshly rebuilt 241dld).
Sure, I expected it to be tight, and it was. But it was the notorious NV4500 "3rd gear grind" right off the bat plus the constant gear noise that ticked me off. My 96 NV4500 never had any such issues even after 200k miles. Only the 5th gear nut ever gave me trouble, one time. I run Amsoil, change it, and overfill it, and I installed those finned aluminum "coolers". What more could I do?
The company that sold me this last pos 4500 (can't recall the name) kept assuring me "it will break in" and reminded me I would have to pay shipping both ways to exchange it. Grrr.
Having been a professional truck driver for 30 years, I just took to double-clutching the danged thing to shift to third. Got used to it, but never stopped being irritated by it.
Then I bought a skidsteer, some attachments, and a Texas Pride 16' gooseneck dump trailer, and the truck started pulling some actually heavy loads (all legal in case any DOT read this). It didn't take much of that before the 4500 started VIOLENTLY jumping partway out of 2nd gear.
Friday, we were just loafing along cruising up the interstate at 70mph pulling my 34' camper when all hell broke loose as something finally failed catastrophically in that transmission. Thanks to a really good friend, the camper got rescued and we came back with my flatbed and rescued the truck, too.
The '96 is down to partly bare frame, taking up all the space in my small shop, so now I need to exile the 73 Camaro into the winter snow outside and make a hole for the truck in my garage and get the NV5600 installed. And the 271 t-case if I can make it fit without excessive frame butchery.
I echo seabee's sentiments and, no matter what, I will not waste another dime or minute of time on another NV4500.

 

Just a to weak of a transmission to stand behind the Cummins. Works fine in Gas applications.

It's not only the torque, it's the hammering of the Diesel principle that kills stuff which isn't designed for. We have seen that so often with Gas vehicles converted to a Diesel engine.

 

There is the model for V8 gas engines (and GM) and the HD NV4500 that goes behind the Cummins and V10s. It was never designed to tow a 34ft 5er at 70 mph or the commercial application I used mine for. The '97 4X4s were factory rated for a GCWR of 16,000 pounds. My 2WD was rated for 20,000 GCWR. Both SRath and I exceeded the design limits and paid the price. Can't blame the transmission.