i want to learn to weld...

good words of advice. I really appreciate the info in this thread.

 

This site is full of good advice! I'm self taught, just watched and practiced. Some people can do this, others need instruction.

 

I admire the "naturals". I for one am not. I struggle every day to make my welds look better than the last. It is an art, and I get by.

Just like anything else, it is a field inwhich someone is always a little better, or has a trick or two to get past a problem area. Thanks Greg, for passing on your knowledge.



Dave

 

Thanks Dave, We all learn from somebody. Many "Somebodys's taught me". It is definitelly an art as well as a science. I might get to burn a little ( 3/32" Excaliber 7018) rod this weekend. Its been a while. Have some cutting and fitting to do. Got some friends to help with the heavy lifting. Building a structure to hold a speaker system for our Church. It will be hung from the ceiling joists and will weigh around 300# complete with the speakers. Have to build yokes for the tweeters that rotate horizontally and allow the tweeters to be adjusted for vertical angle. It will be a fun project. GregH

 

What are your thoughts on a 110v mig welder? Does that really limit the work I can do? I would imagine I will do a lot of automotive projects and trailer fab work. Given that info, would you all stay away from a 110?

 

A good 110 mig welder like the Hobart Handler 140 is capable of doing what you need. I have done some pretty heavy jobs with just such a unit. You may need to make a second pass on heavier steel, but it will still get the job done.

 

Ditto -- I have a 110v AC arc unit that was homemade by an uncle about 50 years ago. While its highest heat level is about 85 amps, it's not a toy, and will weld circles around the 110v units available at Harbor Freight or other such discount outlets. It's very handy to have for locations that do not have 220v, or the 220 is inaccessible -- unable to move the dryer to get at the outlet, for example.

 

I'm in the process of restoring an old car and bought a Lincoln Electric 135ST plus 110V mig welder a year ago. It's more than handled everything I've had to through at it - from sheet metal to plating the frame with 3/16 steel. That being said, I wired a 110V outlet specifically for the welder with at least a 20 amp breaker. The manual suggests this too. Thick stuff on 15 amps is a lesson in frustration in poping fuses. Also if your looking at MIG welders, go with infinate adustable power levels instead of one with a detent selected taps. It'll cost a bit more, but you'll get better/more controlable welds. I bought mine and some scrap steel, asked a few guys that can lay down a decent bead for some tips and then practiced, practiced and (did I say) practiced some more. After that I hit the floor pans first for a little more practice where the beads are easily hidden by the carpet...



Good luck

 

My Hobart Handler 135 was stolen and I needed a rig right away so I got the Millermatic 135 which has the infinitely adjustable power. If I had it to do over, I would opt for the Hobart Handler 140 even though it has four detents. The Miller has a huge design flaw in the way the trigger wire hooks up, it is a plug that connects to the front of the box where it can hit and be hit by everything under the sun, instead of inside like the Hobart and Lincoln where it is nice and safe. Also, it will not weld aluminum "out of the box", you have to buy a spool gun and adaptor which run more than the welder itself! Both the Hobart and Lincoln will weld aluminum as is (with gas of course).

 

Anyone else have opinions on the millermatic 140 vs the hobart handler 140? You would think that the miller being more expensive would weld aluminum, why is that so?

 

Northern Tool has the Hobart 140 for $459. That is the lowest price i've seen, anyone know of any cheaper places?

 

The Tractor Supply had them for $399 last time I was there.

 

Since OA was brought up I'll throw in a couple web sites that I have learned a lot from. Good starting place anyway. The first one has OA welding and cutting as well as arc welding, the second just OA.

http://www.esabna.com/us/en/education/esab-university.cfm

http://www.metalwebnews.com/howto/weld/weld.html

Enjoy!

Godspeed,
Trent

 

Miller wants more money, plain and simple! As I stated earlier, you have to buy a spoolgun and an adaptor box which will cost you more than the welder did in the first place! Most people won't be welding aluminum, but if you are planning on it I would stay away from the Miller.

 

I don't know it this is true or not but... When I bought my Lincoln 135 plus, the salesman asked if I was going to be welding aluminum and said that eventhough it'll do it I should buy a new cable/gun/rollers. He said you'd get contanimated/poor welds in steel from the aluminum residue left in the gun. Personally, I believe him as he sold me only what I needed and actually turned me away from some things I was looking at that he thought I wouldn't need.

 

It's possible, but you should run a good lube through your liner and that will reduce the chances.

 

BTowler, Any lubricant in your liner is a source of weld contamination. Even dry lubes like graphite will increase carbon levels in your weldment leading to embrittlement failure. There are teflon liners available for running aluminum wire in a standard GMA setup. The disadvantage to this is that you are still pushing very soft wire a long way through your wire guide compared with the steel wire. An Aluminum contact tip is also different than a steel contact tip. A steel contact tip is straight. An aluminum contact tip is a double kinked affair to make sure the wire is constantly part of the welding electrical circuit. You can weld aluminum with a slightly modified pusher GMAW system, you just have to be conscious of the radius of your wire guide and gun as you weld. It may also be necessary to change your drive rollers. Hope this is helpful. GregH

 

Actually, I have never had any problems welding aluminum with a standard contact tip, no mods at all, nor had any problems with contamination. And as far as the lube, that is on the recommendation of three different welders who are certified structural welders.

 

That's one of the nice things about good old fashioned stick welding: no gasses, no lubricants, no wire drives. Just clamp in a stick and GO! Plus even the ugliest, nastiest looking welds seem to hold like the dickens!



Ryan

 

Thats good that you havent had any problems . Normally using a standard tip for steel wire causes jamming of the same size aluminum wire because the aluminum wire expands when it gets hot and jams the tip contributing to the wire mouse nest that everyone complains about. The double kink in an aluminum GMAW tip ensures electrical contact and the orifice is adequate clearence to allow the aluminum to expand as it is heated at the tip. The comments about a lubricant is your choice. I have never used a filler wire lubricant in my welding experience ( which is considerable ). I am not here to compare myself with others. My concern is that the beginners on this website get correct and up to date information. If there are those of you out there that have used a wire lube on/in a certified GMAW welding process, Please let us know. I do know that there is a lot of new technology that has been introduced since I was Certified. Otherwise, I feel that you are misled. No disrespect intended. GregH