Another '22

It matches the owners manual exactly for that statement. I thought the new manual had the 20086 in it for CK-4.

My main miss understanding for this was I read as "Full" Synthetic in the OM, it does not say that at all. It just says Synthetic.

So really the Blend would have more then fine, all of the stuff in stock on the shelf over there for what one would buy for Diesels was Blend CK-4 and CES20081.

Price and availability are both better on the Blends with the proper ratings. It's grab and go.

Most oil topics are crazy, as is this one with me!

 

The owners manual does say full synthetic for the 6.4L, maybe you saw it there at one point.

Remember CES 20086 = CK and CES 20081 = CJ

For our 6.7’s the only mention of synthetic is for 5w-40 use in cold temps, no mention of it for 10w-30 above 0°F.

The mention of CES 20081 is also only for ambient temps above 0°, for cold weather it’s not allowed. It’s an alternate oil, not the recommended spec. You want to see CES 20086/CK spec on the oil you run, which isn’t an issue these days.

Diesel oils are backwards compatible, so any oil meeting CK specs will meet CES 20081. What the manual is telling you is that above 0° you can use a 10w-30 that doesn’t meet CK specs if it does meet CES 20081 specs.

Ignore the highlights on page 5, our applicability is with after treatment. You can see CES 20081 is permitted, but not recommended. The note on page 4 also indicates CES 20086 is recommend to be used over CES 20081.

 

Cool info, I appreciate it.

Yeah I don't want to run some magic oil in this one just because. Will check in with the counter folks when this magic stuff shows up.

They can always send it back and swap out for the normal blend on the shelf.

I cab almost get 2 oil changes out of this right now with the Premium Blue Blend 10w30 sale price.

 

Still not super warm here in NJ, but better to get something started here on this project.

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Just changed the oil, filter, fuel filter, cabin air filter, and air filter out yesterday on the EcoD.

I also grabbed some oil for a Cummins/Polaris Labs oil analysis, which I'll update in my other thread in the EcoD section.

Lucky for me I have a heated shop, but it's been in the 50-60F, which is great working weather for me.

 

Yeah of course it had to try to rain, I have a nice shop but it's full so did it outside.

Went well.

Cabin filter really needed to be changed, was surprised but not surprised.

The fuel filters the self prime deal was super impressive, cranked right up.

The Genos tool was really nice. Filter came right out the side no issues or mess.




Installed the drain valve as well.


My helper for the day yesterday to set up the Topside Creeper, was a good purchase IMO.


Then again today, the '48 was also helpful with workbench duties.

It's a mess in the shop, but we have lot of fun so that's all that counts really.



I checked the oil and it has plenty with the 12qt. Really don't bother too much with it. I know it's good and will recheck tomorrow AM.

 

I like your helper assistant. Get them helping doing stuff early. Keep them away from the iPad games as much as you can My 15 yr old granddaughter just made my upper bunk bed in my camper. Kids are suppose to help theirs elders

 

My gosh does the under body of that truck look clean. Looks brand new! Yesterday I was fighting getting sand in my face and hair. I sprayed the entire fuel filter housing off with a half can of brake cleaner to get the sand and other debris off of it. Makes me super nervous doing the fuel filter when the canister is that dirty. I changed rubber gloves like three times doing it just to make absolutely sure no contaminants got in the system. Then priming the system and that first long start always seems like an eternity. I primed mine 12x just to be sure.

Nice little helpers you got there! They grow up quick. Try to keep them interested in diesels.

 

Yeah he likes all the trucks and stuff, he is always helping me and I take them out when I can. He likes the '96 even though it's never driven since he has been born, I picked up some parts from Genos for it so my "goal" is to have it on the road by the fall, if I can do like 4 hours a month that's all it would need to get back on the road.

Yeah it's a NE truck but I have not really driven it in the winters. I need to figure out a system for protection like a fluid film / Wool wax/ something like that.

The only miss step was not changing the oil and filters prior to Winter, they technically timed out, the fuel filter was MFG 6/22/22 on the printing, truck was mfg like Aug of 2022, so kinds shows they do use pretty fresh filters from the plant.

I now can schedule all the recalls and the sort that it needs get those done.

Needs a bath and still need to do the front and read Diff, will need tires by the time Summer gets here in full swing.


I was actually surprised by the mounting bolts for the engine mount filter how the rusted. Or to me they look rusted.

 

Very good!

I get my truck Krowned. Not sure if they have any Krown dealers in your area. I like that they pressure wash the under body (as an option) to get all the sand and salt off. Then spray it with their oil. It's very reasonable.

Not sure if you've ever went under a sandy vehicle and pressure washed it. Not fun! It's gross. For the $40 to have them pressure wash the entire under body of the vehicle is awesome. They suit up in a rain suit and have at it for about 30 minutes up on a lift getting soaked and covered in the disgusting road grime.

My frame is still black and no rust other than on some smaller screws, nuts, and bolts. Amazing how that stuff works.

I'll never do Ziebart after a bad experience (and a coworker's bad experience) with it.

 

I stayed clean today till I washed out the pan and the stuff sprayed all over me, I was surprised the location of the rear filter right over the drive shaft, I had no clue where it was actually mounted. Wound up using the one hose from the pressure pot.for the brake bleder kit.

No Krown dealers nearby, closest one is 2 hr away.


I think there is a place local that started doing something, I think I'll get the K1 snap ring done first then do the protection deal. I wonder what the techs think of this stuff that have to work on it. Especially since I have not done it and if I did it right before a big job like that.


I think a cool starter kit would be..... (not a price savings kit, just a all in one deal order it and be done)

1. GENOS oil filter wrench
2. GENOS fuel filter Socket
3. 30" small hose for rear filter.
4. 1 chassis mount fuel filter
5. 1 oil filter
6. Engine mount fuel filter
7. Cabin air filter

I also would have loved if someplace had picked out all the fluids in one click buy it now deal.....
1. 12 Qt of oil
2. Proper oil for front and rear diff
3. 1 qt ATF+4 for PS
4. What ever that oil is for the ABS sensor deal, I thought about doing that. But not even sure it applies to be honest. Then need to add in that little syringe deal folks use. I think I already have some.

Once you are set up it's pretty straight forward, but for me it's just hard to get time to figure it all out then before you know it your 6 months over due!

So I did both filters and the oil at the same time, when done went from ACC to Run for about 30sec, back to OFF. Acc to Run for 30sec, then off and then started the truck.

I rolled the window down and had the radio and stuff off. You can hear the pump run, but if your hearing is shot it runs for like 30s.

It does hit the grid heaters twice but I canceled the 3rd by holding the button.

It started right up was really impressed, not like a 12V instant start, but it was not even that stumble start it does at times.

That '96 is amazing how darn fast it used to start. For all that these got going on they are quick but I think there are times they need to figure something out before they fire up.

 

Oil for the ABS sensor? Are you referring to removing the ABS sensor and putting wheel bearing grease into the sealed wheel bearings?

 

Yeah the sealed bearing deal, are they fully sealed, I never looked it up, I only really read about it a few times.

But if they are fully sealed I'm not sure how that would work.

 

Here is a good thread with pictures.

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/greasing-front-wheel-bearings.270109/#post-2653477

I want to do the caliper slides and service those as my '18 2500 was a bear when I let that slide and not do the annual / semi annual basic stuff on those fronts.

 

It’s really not too bad, I did it on my ‘18 and will be doing it to my ‘22 this fall.

The units are fully sealed, but have the opening for the ABS sensor.

Any quality wheel bearing grease will work. I use Amsoil wheel bearing grease.

https://www.amsoil.com/p/amsoil-100-synthetic-multi-purpose-grease-glc/

 

@Timd32, Check out Black Star; https://www.mrochem.com/BlackStar-Rust-Converter.html. I liked the fact that it didn't require a topcoat be put on. Also very easy to work with and environmentally friendly! You can, brush, roll or spray from a garden sprayer! Good coverage from a gallon jug or get the cans for convenience! Doesn't need a lot of prep to apply, just pressure wash off all the loose stuff and coat. No wire brushing required. Had mentioned it to you awhile back for on the '96.

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Looks easy enough.

I typically just use that Ceramic stuff from the local auto parts store for the caliper slides, was there some sort of air brake slide pin grease that was better.

Yeah the poor old '96, it's not been out in the wild, but is on the list.

I tried to pull the SDS on that stuff, it sound like it's Phosphoric Acid based that takes the Iron Oxide and turns to Iron Phosphate, but then they might have another binder of sorts that seals it.

I've been working on my '48 Willys and trying out some rust proofing stuff, it's a restoration project so I don't want something that coats the whole frame there. I tried Ospho but was thinking of skipping the wash step and tried it out on some hardware, that's a bad idea not to follow the directions for that specific stuff.

It turns the rust black, but you need to wash it which is not big deal I just wanted to skip that step and see what happens.

 

@Timd32, Here you go.

 

Guess I already had that one!

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Thanks it's a Glycol Ether EB product according to that. I'm sure there are other things in it.

According to Google it's fairly common in Rust Converters.

 

That's just to Funny!