White Smoke, No Power, Post Rebuild

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Just finished rebuilding engine. Now I have white smoke, no power, but idles OK at 750.
Any body have any guesses/fixes?

- No codes
- Idles fine
- Smoke will choke me out water my eyes, don't think it's coolant or head gasket
- No power in gear and knocks under load
-- knock doesn't sound like rod or crank
- I can hear the turbo, but my boost guage isn't working. But whistles just fine
- Checked fuel, looks/smells fine
- Replaced fuel filter twice, no algae no signs of bad fuel and I put new fuel in after issue with no improvement
- New injectors (BBI)
Purs like a kitten at idle
-No oil in coolant, vice versa
- I'm assuming unburned fuel, from other "white smoke" posts. But can't figure out why.
- New injectors, New head, New turbo
- Revs up just fine in park
- I can get it to rev up just fine in park, but it does produce a proportional increase in smoke.
- I don't have a proper scan tool so I can't check things like fuel pressure, cut out specific cylinders, etc.
Any ideas?

 

If you can afford it get AutoEnginuity to do the things you mentioned.
Right now I've no clue what's going on, maybe it needs a couple hours to run in.

The CP3 is phased right i guess?

Cam is 100% in the right teeth?

Even without turbo you should have decent power, it's still a 5.9 Liter Diesel.

 

I’d check your fuel return volume. Sounds like a connector tube or injector isn’t seated properly.

 

Park it and DO NOT RUN IT until you find and fix this!!!

The knock sound means it: Something bad is going on and going to quickly do something bad to your nice rebuild. Knock and smoke has pre-ignition written all over it. Being safe with that guess as I am not there to hear it. Again troubleshoot it before running looking for oil in the intake, fuel leaks, coolant - system pressure test...

If the clouds evaporate it's coolant.

Otherwise you have injector problems or getting oil into the combustion chamber.

Burning eyes is more likely fuel or coolant.

Bluntly stop two assumptions here:
1. That it's not 'coolant' or anything else. Diagnose and prove it.
2. New parts mean good parts:
Nothing gets a "free pass" when you are troubleshooting. I do not like doing a job over because someone didn't do theirs, shipping destroyed the part(s) along the way, I missed something that ruined the part, or "OOPS!" dropped it, or messed up the install. Say a fuel leak under "stuff happens: we do weird every single day."

Remind us how the last engine "failed"? Did it dump a bunch of coolant/oil into the intake and exhaust?

 

If you do run it again run with the exhaust removed and see if just one cylinder has the smoke. That would narrow it down if it's just one cylinder.

 

The pre rebuild engine had massive blowby, after tear down I found two cylinders had broken piston rings. And the turbo was bad as well. But the truck never had these symptoms and still had plenty of power, no knocking. And present knocking only happens under a load. If I rev it up in park, no knock, or at least nothing I can hear.
I replaced all pistons, injectors, injector tubes...all new, all installed to torque specs.
Somebody else suggested a fuel return volume test. I'll have to figure how to do that in a hobby garage, no special tools at my place.

 

So do I remove the entire exhaust manifold to do this?

 

Cam and crank lined up during assembly, no problem. I must have checked that 4 times.

I'm not sure how to phase a fuel pumps, but I thought the '05s were computer timed.

I've only run it around 25 minutes, just long enough to perform a running temp valve clearance check/adjustment.

 

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Just ordered this cylinder cap off tool. Hoping this is a low budget cylinder power test option.

 

No the CP3is phased so that the pump stroke matches the injection stroke.
The WM gives you the information how it works, its pretty easy.


Connection tube torque was raised through the years, depending on your manual you are on the lower end then. And the torque sequence injector, tube, injector has to be followed strictly.

 

But it still doesn't explain the no powering gear.

 

I'll look up phasing the pump. Never heard of that. Hope that doesn't require the whole front cover being removed.

 

No just the access cover.

 

You want to see what cylinder is smoking. Likely away from the engine far enough that one cylinder exhausting doesn't smoke back out of all six ports.

Any chance oil was left in the intercooler or exhaust from the bad turbo and/or engine failure?

How loud is the knock?

Was it hitting on all 6 when running?

 

Here are some sheets from All Data.

 

Ditto, check tubes and retorque. Go over the injectors next.

Something is getting inside the cylinders and not burning completely. You don't have power. It's knocking. I'm leaning towards fuel.

Test and verify.

 

Forget about the pump timing. It has nothing at all to do with how it runs, noise reduction only from gears clacking.
Probably same for return flow. High return from a leaking connector tube will not get into the cylinder. Do I recall you had a tuner installed? More than likely need a scan tool to help confirm a couple of things. Are you sure you did not leave a rag in the intake and it got sucked into the grid heater blocking air flow?
White smoke is incomplete combustion (assuming it isn't coolant) so either not enough compression or too little air. Instead of pulling the exhaust manifold back, if you have an infrared temp sensor ($25 at Harbor Freight) check each exhaust runner shortly after starting cold to see if one or more is significantly cooler than the others.

 

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Spent my day off rechecked the connector tubes. Still blows white smoke.