Need injectors and new transmission. What would you do?

I have 2007 2500 5.9L that I have had for 2 years. 155K. It is totally stock. It has been great up until now. Got a P0148 code on a long trip over the Sierras towing a 23' RV. The day after we got home the transmission gave up. Shop says I'm due for injectors and a new transmission! All at once. Lucky me. I'm in San Diego and the truck just made it to the dealer where it sits. They say they have no transmission in stock and do not have a quote yet. For either job. I'll get that tomorrow. I'm guessing around $10 in repairs. I don't have the tools or smarts to do it myself.

Should I wait for the dealer to find a transmission or can anyone recommend a good shop in San Diego?

Is the dealer factory replacement the exact same transmission with the same results at 150k? Or has it been improved?

I know nothing of all the aftermarket 48re options available. Is there a "best choice" on the market readily available?

Thanks in advance for all the advice.

 

In Socal I would go to Inglewood for the transmission and BBI for injectors though have you had it diagnosed anywhere else? I dont always trust dealers to property diagnose a problem as oppose to just throwing parts at a problem and hope for the best.

 

sounds like a sales move, not a diagnosis. Do not get new injectors until tests are done and the testing shows some failure. What performance issue makes them think that you need new injectors? PO148 code could be a fuel delivery problem, fuel filter, lift pump, CP3 pump, fuel pressure controller on the pump, or rail relief. Diagnose prior to changing parts, especially injectors. You could change injectors ans still have the code. Transmissions are the weak link on our trucks. I had mine rebuilt at 90K with heavy duty bands and other parts stock. I have about 150 K on the rebuild and I tow a lot. I credit the longer transmission life to a strong aftermarket lockup converter. I used the Banks converter because i have a lot of other Banks equipment. There are lots of other options out there for converters and maybe others could chime in with their experience. I would take the truck to a diesel shop based on the initial dealer recommendations to you.

 

Good advice on diagnosing the fuel fault code. Properly diagnose it then go from there. Same on the transmission, until it gets disassembled and determined exactly what needs to be replaced there's no need to just replace it with a reman unit

 

They took it apart and the clutches are disintegrating is what they said. The fluid was full of metal when i checked it. It was clear a couple weeks prior. I'm certain the transmission is toast. I'll definitely get a second opinion on the injectors. It just sucks paying to have it towed to each place.

 

I agree on the injectors needing a second opinion. It drove fine after throwing the code and my mileage was doing good. I would hope the dealer could properly diagnose that though. What was the cost of your transmission upgrade?

 

Same problem mine had at 90K. The metal is throughout the transmission including the converter. You can have the transmission work completed at the dealer and then get into finding the problem with the fuel delivery code. I would use a rebuilt or new transmission (if one exists) and a new converter even if it is stock. If they want to rebuild your transmission ensure you are satisfied with how they will get the metal out of it. Like I mentioned, i used heavy duty bands and clutches in my rebuild and got good service even with lots of towing.

 

To the Transmissions, there are many good options out there from the shelf from trustworthy Manufacturers.
Or you go to a rebuilder like Inglewood, have your transmission shipped there and rebuild and beefed up.

I myself will probably choose a BD Diesel Transmission one day in the future.

 

Update; The dealer has a factory rebuild swap for $4000 plus $2000 in labor. It has a 3 year unlimited mile warranty.
A local shop called Certified Transmission in Santee will rebuild my transmission for $4000 and it will be stronger than the factory rebuild. It has a 2 year, 24K mile warranty. Certified Transmission has good reviews and for a better transmission I'm going with them. Not to mention saving $2K! I'm still working on the injector issue.

 

Actually the price from the dealer for the transmission isn't that bad, it's the labor that is. I looked and the 48RE's must be really hard to come by, the core charge for the two PN's they list for 2006 are $1,000 and $3,000.

 

What is the trans doing?
any running symptoms to imply the injectors need replacing? or just the one code?

 

The transmission was locked in first gear. It was toast. The injectors have not given me a noticeable problem. Just a code.

 

That is rebuilding what I have with better than stock parts but I have not seen the build list yet. Sadly I don't know what the OD housing and billet cover stall TC is but I will ask about that. Thank you.

 

The dealer said they could only find 3 factory rebuilds in the whole country.

 

My batteries are getting pretty old. I'll be getting a second opinion as soon as I find a local shop I can trust.

 

I called Inglewood and got the same pricing as Certified Transmissions. They have a $4K or a $6K option. I'm not going to build the engine up so a rebuild with "better" than stock parts is all I need.

 

Rent a truck and run it up to Inglewood Transmissions . Bob is in Fullerton now , he will use excellent Goerend parts