SpynTec lock out hubs?

I am going to order a set for my 04 dully the end of this week. Has any body had any problems with them?



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93 250 2wd xc 354 auto 278k

04. 5 3500 4wd qc dully 373 6speed 116k

 

If you do a search for the hubs,there was a pretty long thread about them.

 

I am doing the install today. These parts look so good you could use them a decorations. For some reason the wife does not agree.



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93 250 2WD XC 354 AUTO 278K

04. 53500 4WD QC DULLY 373 6SPEED 116K

 

Spin free hubs

See my thread in this post.

Dave Mc

 

Did mine with that exact kit a little while back. Very pleased, no problems except proper tire wear and increased mileage ...

 

I only got one side tor down, some customers seen I was in the shop and so munch for my day.

 

Sent from Victoria, Texas



Had a SpynTec kit installed on my '06 2500 Mega Cab 4X4 auto, 3. 73 w/285-70 X 17 tires, about a two months ago along, The SpynTec parts are well made with excellent machine work, and then everything is heat treated with very close attention to detail. All bearings and seals are "off the shelf" Timken and Chicago Rawhide. Even the funny 'V' seal that is designed to keep trash out of the ABS sensors is a stock item. The hubs are Mile Marker Stainless Steel



I have put about 3,000 miles on truck towing our 27' TT. Towing mileage is up to 18. 3 towing (Smarty set on Towing) On a quick round trip run to Mobile, AL with the Smarty on economy we got 22. 2 MPH - - w/o the trailer, and running between 65 and 70 mph, up from 19. 7. The mileage part is great, but I usually don't pay a lot of attention to how I'm running, except to watch the RPM and EGT gauges. The thing I like the most about the conversion, is being able to put the transfer case in 4lo, and with the hubs unlocked have 2 WD low range to back trailer in tight up hill places.



Had my install done at MAD 4WD in North Lima, about one mile from SpynTec. Matt from SpynTec stopped by several times to make sure everything was going OK.



Both Larry at MAD and Matt from Solid Axle (mfg of SpynTec) are good guys and very interested in providing great customer service - - Kinda' like Geno's

 

I haven't heard a single bad thing about the spyntec's and when I go down this road they are at the top of my list.

C. D. Day, are you hand calcing the mileage or going off the overhead?

 

The 2wd low is what I was after also, the mpg is just a plus. My truck has a gooseneck hooked to 90% of the time. I have a Southbend clutch in it and when it is really hot like TX the clutch grabs so hard it shutters when trying to stick it in a loading dock, besides reverse is just to tall for big loads in places they don't belong.



I spoke with Matt (good guy) and ended up becoming a dealer. Today a customer showed up that we had already ordered a set for. We wasted hours admiring the quality of the parts. One of the things I really like about this set is that the exciter ring for the ABS is sealed. We also ordered a set of flat top steer knuckles for an axle we are building right now. It looks like we're getting back into the custom 4x4 business.



Glad to hear it is working well for you. 1 mpg will make me happy. I have wanted a set of lock out hubs since I got the truck.



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93 250 2wd xc 354 auto 278k

04. 5 3500 4wd qc dully 373 6speed 116k

 

I'm hand calculating every tank load and then using % tow and non tow usually comes out with in 0. 2 mpg - - I got a tank of very poor fuel in East Texas, and it threw me for a loop, but the next tank full was right on. BUT - - I didn't buy it for mileage, that was just a plus - - I wanted the 2wd Lo capibility

 

DGamelin - - Check with Southbend, they have a deal that eliminiates the shutter problem - - Bill Howard, a TDR member down in Florida had the problem on a 2wd and the fix did what it was supposed to do. Also made the peddle easier to push- - - I think it was a double disk setup

 

Thats very impressive mileage, I have yet to break 15 towing my TT, and usually get sub 14. I would be shocked if the hubs brought it up that much. Then again I also have yet to break 20 unloaded, 19. 7 is as close as it gets for me.

 

Sent from Victoria, Texas



Your numbers are right on what I was getting (don't pay mutch attention to tow mileage)- - pre SpynTec - - depending on the terraine I run it on economy when towing when I don't have alot of hills - - engine temp is a little higher and EGT is lower. The '06 doesn't have the inner-axle disconnect like my '01 had, so on the '06 the whole front end was turning all the time. I believe freeing up the front axle provides better mileage. Remember as I said, the 22. 2 mpg came about when I was paying close attention to my mileage, slow take off, slow stop etc.



According to Matt at SpynTec, expect about a 10% increase in mileage - - - but don't bank on it - - -all depends on the driver and the truck. My truck is pretty heavily loaded with tools and fishing stuff - - I'll try to get it weighed today when we go to Corpus.

 

I finally got the time to tare both sides down, had one froze up u-joint and didn't know it, the other one didn't have long to go. Maybe tomorrow when the joints get here I might get one side done.



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93 250 2wd xc 354 auto 278k

05. 5 3500 4wd qc dully 373 6speed 116k

 

YES! I can't wait to do this next spring. I am looking to do a complete axle end rebuild with this kit, complete with greasable ball and universal joints. I like that this kit uses all OEM stuff. What are we paying for these kits... . Not including labor? I do that myself.

Those who did their own, what was the hardest part?, getting the hub out of the knuckle?

 

The kit for a SRW list for $1550 right now. None of this is OEM it is all custom made, that is probable why the quality is so good. I didn't change my ball joints it is killing me but they are in good shape. The u-joints was a rough decision. I like Spicer but the only one you can get is none greasable that sucks. The only greasable one I found is a Precision and I don't care for them at all. I went with the Spicer it took a day of toil to make up my mind and I still am not happy about it.



Getting the hub off is usually the hardest part, but there is a tool you can use or a socket and the right length extension. It pushes on the head of the 4 bolts after you have backed them out. I back them out tell the end of the bolt is flush with the hub so you have as munch thread as possible to push on. Then turn the wheel left and right moving the tool back and forth using the power steering to compress the tool between the inter c and head of the bolts. Use a hammer to hit the outer c when under compression the shock will help to loosen. This works great but it bother me pushing so hard on the ball joints. There is a couple of post on here about the tool a snap-on that probably explain it better.



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93 250 2wd xc 354 auto 278k

04. 5 3500 4wd qc dully 373 6speed 116k

 

What was your aversion to the 464's? I've had them in my truck for 45K miles, no issues at all. I grease them once a year, making sure grease exits from all the cups. They should be installed so the grease fitting is under compression, not tension.



I realize that NG joints are stronger, but what good is that if they die from lack of grease first?

 

From Victoria, Texas



The hardest part is getting the old bearing assy. out. Take a look at the new Snap-on socket for hub removal, writeups have been good I haven't used it The cost is $1550 for the kit. I think you are payng for outstanding

workmanship in the machining and heat treating of componants. The fact that the system uses stock off the shelf bearings and seals is a plus. The seal on the ABS ring is a plus-plus no other kit has a provision for keeping dirt out. I wanted greasable Ujoints, but after thinking about it, with the Ujoints not moving all the time when the hubs are in free.



The last item, I felt the OEM bearing packs were due to be replaced due to miles. I paid $750. for each side (parts and Labor) when i had my '01 done, so it wasn't a hard decision. I did have greasable ball joints installed, mine were still Ok, but since all that work was being done, it was a no brainer.



Uesd 4wd for the first time on the beach at N Padre in Texas this week and everything worked as planned. Has been a long time since I had to get out and lock the hubs. Those MileMarker hubs sure do work easy

 

Make sure you use good grease and re-grease/repack every 50k or so...



I would recommend Pennzoil 707L for an off-the-shelf grease that performs very well in this application.

 

I'm pretty much up on what's required to do the job. I've done Ford SD's so I guess it's pretty much the same deal with the bearing being stuck. The difference here will be doing it on the ground and not on the lift... I will be using whatever greasable joints I can get, of course I prefer Spicer, but Precision is OK, especially since they will be under a lot less stress after the conversion- i'd rather be able to flush them out with grease. I have precision in the rear shaft. . No problems.