OEM fuel pump or aftermarket

Discussion in '3rd Generation Ram Forum (NO engine/transmission topics) Archive' started by Blu-meanie, Aug 9, 2020.

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  1. Blu-meanie TDR MEMBER

    My fuel pressure is running 5 lbs or less after changing the fuel filter. I doubt the filter caused it (sigh), unfortunately I didn't look at the pressure before doing the change. But, I was running 7.5 since the truck was new and the last time I drove it, that's where it was. I'm going to change the filter again, but I don't have much hope for that to solve anything. I see lots of different pumps for sale, anybody use one of the others? Geno's has Carters.
     
    Blu-meanie , Aug 9, 2020
    #1

  2. AH64ID TDR MEMBER

    What load is it down to 5 psi on?

    Any chance it’s got an air bubble by the sender?
     
    AH64ID , Aug 9, 2020
    #2

  3. Blu-meanie TDR MEMBER

    I bled the part from the filter to the isolater. I changed the filter again, now it's 6 psi. I'll take it for a walk tomorrow and see what happens. From the posts of failed pumps, many have failed a 75K. That's where I'm at.
     
    Blu-meanie , Aug 9, 2020
    #3

  4. AH64ID TDR MEMBER

    Many also go several hundred thousand miles. The in tank pump is very reliable.
     
    AH64ID , Aug 9, 2020
    #4
    White2005, HPSimpson, MichaelOverfield and 1 other person like this.

  5. cerberusiam Staff Member

    Not with an in-tank pump like that, actual failures are rare. I have 2 trucks with well over 300k on them pushing thru 2 filters. Changing LP with an in-tank pump is not as simple as popping a Carter pump on it.

    What are you running for a gauge setup? Mechanical gauge with an isolator? Electronic sending unit on an isolator?
     
    cerberusiam , Aug 12, 2020
    #5

  6. Blu-meanie TDR MEMBER

    Mechanical with isolater. Bled from filter to isolater.
     
    Blu-meanie , Aug 13, 2020
    #6

  7. HPSimpson TDR MEMBER

    Sounds like you will need to drop the fuel tank and that's not going to be fun, connections on fuel tank can be a pain, two straps hold tank on. Sounds simple to do I have done my '96 several times, due algae in tank.:mad:
     
    HPSimpson , Aug 13, 2020
    #7

  8. Blu-meanie TDR MEMBER

    Did that for the fuel vent modification. I'll be removing the bed this time. I still haven't heard from anybody as to the replacement pump. OEM or aftermarket.
     
    Blu-meanie , Aug 13, 2020
    #8

  9. sojoe

    NOS IN TANK
     
    sojoe , Aug 13, 2020
    #9

  10. HPSimpson TDR MEMBER

    On my '96 it's still OEM unit submerge in fuel keeps ticking right along.:D
     
    HPSimpson , Aug 13, 2020
    #10

  11. White2005

    The OEM pump has been reliable for me.
     
    White2005 , Aug 14, 2020
    #11

  12. cerberusiam Staff Member

    Replace the gauge with a newer electronic one before tackling an LP. The isolator gauges have a finite lifetime it seems.

    Yes, an 05 will have an in-tank pump. OE has been good for most people. there are some OE replacements that are supposed to have better pressure at the CP-3.
     
    cerberusiam , Aug 15, 2020
    #12

  13. Blu-meanie TDR MEMBER

    Well, you may trust an electronic gauge, but if it fails, what is it checked by? Mechanical.
     
    Blu-meanie , Aug 15, 2020
    #13

  14. cerberusiam Staff Member

    ...and running a mechanical fuel pressure in the cab is just asking for trouble without using an isolator and coolant. Either of those liquids will impact the gauge efficiency after a time. Frankly, the EV II gauges have been better than the EV I mechanicals in terms long term efficacy. Isolate the pressure sending unit with a grease gun hose and few problems are found.

    The isolator gauge was a maintenance pig, always needed burped, and 2 gauges eventually leaked coolant which interfered with their readings. I would never trust that setup as an absolute measure without checking. Been there, done that.
     
    cerberusiam , Aug 15, 2020
    #14
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