Rear driver door lock.

For some odd reason, I find out that my rear driver's door won't automagicly lock . Won't unlock either.



Anyone run into this? I'll tear into it this weekend I suppose.

 

Probably the actuator latch unit gone bad. I had to replace my passenger side rear door unit. Its all in one, actuator and latch. Hardest part is trying to get your hands in the limited space to unlatch the rods that attach to it and then remembering where they go back on the new one. Cost if I remember was about $25. 00 for my 03. Should take you about 30 minutes to complete. Good luck!



Mark

 

Mine did the same thing on the passenger side. It turned out to be the wire had broken inside the rubber flexi thing. (near the hinges)

 

Ironically , I had just cleaned the door jams real good prior to my trip. . I'll check wires first!

 

rather than start a new thread, i thought i would add to this since my problem is exactly the same.



it started with the speaker not working in the left rear door about a month ago. today the power lock stopped working.



here is what i found and how i repaired it.



i've also included a photo from the front when the door is closed. the wire bundle really looks kinked but it would not get any better after i tried to ease the bend.



i ended up taking off the door panel and seat belt cover panel, however this was not necessary now that i know how to remove the bulkhead connector from the truck. a simple push with a screwdriver from the side depresses the tab to allow the connector to come out.



sorry they are a little out of focus. i didn't realize it until they were on the computer and the truck was back together.



my guess is that this fix will not last for ever. the wires will most certainly break again due to the angle that these wires have to bend.



jim

 

I gotcha beat. I had 6 wires completely separated and one that came apart when I wiggled it.

Now everything works. I still need to get a new harness if possible 'cause my wiring job ain't-a-gonna last too long. Dang short wires.

 

I have yet to fix this.



I have a new one. My seat belt light is on. I've done some wire testing in cab and the lead wire is dead. The switch in the belt buckle works. This weekends project if I can.

 

I've fixed 2 wires that were split and one that was corroded away.





The 2 that were split were the 2 for the door lock. added some extra wire and crimped them in place.



The third wire was for the seat belt light. somehow the wire in the wire harness that goes along side the drivers seat go out of the bunch and the plastic tray was resting on the one wire. it didn't cut the plastic but rubbed the wire enough and let air in and the copper corroded away. Cut and re-splice some new wire in the middle and all fixed.



Now the one last electrical thing that needs fixing is the cig lighter power port in the center console. I have no power at the hardness that plugs into the drivers seat. so something is shorted/cut up stream of that. . since I have no other funkyness and did not see anything apparent in that same harness for the seatbelt I think I"ll leave it be.



No electrical shorts, nothing draining abnormally. so I think I"m in the clear I hope.



If anyone has had this plug go dead and found were the problem was, please let me know, I'd still like to fix it.

 

First my driver's side rear door speaker went out. Took it to dealer assuming it was under warranty. They said amp on that channel was fried, but the stereo wasn't covered. As a consolation, they would apply the $150 service charge towards the +$500 new amp. I told the dealer to pound sand. Then the rear door lock went.



After reading this thread, I inspected the loom and sure enough, four wires cut and one about to go. I'm interested to see what the dealer will do when I ask for a new loom and my money back.



Thanks to TDR and all of you for helping out.

 

Keep us updated! I'm totally interested in how this turns out. I'm sure your lawyer would love an easy case too if they don't give you your money back!

 

For sure will post the results. I'll be going in likely sometime next week.

 

Well, as expected, the dealer was unsympathetic. Although the wiring loom was defective and covered under parts warranty (Gold Plus coverage) I repaired it, thus it is not broken. Had I taken it in and not fixed it, they could work something out.



I explained the fact that in these days of fiscal disaster for car makers, it does no good to tick-off a past and potential future customer, regardless of their interpretation of the warranty - especially when he was given a misdiagnosis and is only asking for what's covered by warranty. I'm exhausted from dealing with this corporation, regardless of how much I love my truck.

 

It's just brutal how disconnected sales and service are from reality. You'd think the corporate bosses would be sending clear direction to their dealerships to make every effort to keep loyal customers. I'm sure not every dealer is like this, but seems like most are. In the past, I wouldn't give the time of day to a GM or Ford dealer. Now seems like Dodge/Chrysler are catching up quickly. Sorry for the rant. I'm all better now.



Jim - if you're ever rolling through Colorado Springs, drop a line. I owe you for the clue on repairing the speakers/door lock.



Merry Christmas to all, and hope Santa brings some CTD goodies for your stockings!



Steph

 

The dealer never gets their hands on my truck but this thread reminds me of the Pre-owned Lexus I had once. This car was the ES300 (their entry level model) and just barely qualified for "Certified Pre-Owned" status. This was great because I got new car finance rates and a warranty. I was really floored with how they treated me for warranty issues. I left like they rolled out a red carpet for me when I came in for service, they even came to my job site once for a mobile repair. They treated me like I had sprung for a top of the line model and I was their most important customer. I was impressed with the level of service I got and honestly didn't feel worthy with what I had purchased.

 

Jim,

Thanks for the pictures. I have an 04. 5 that had the door lock stop working first, then the power window, then the speaker. I'm taking it apart tomorrow thanks to your pictures. Hopefully with a little extra wire and solder, my daughter won't be mad at me anymore for "having to walk around to the other door". I'll let you know what I find.

Bob

 

Open your door and look to see if some one has set the child safty switch?? lli red cummins!! I live here in Princeton where the JAPS owne a plant!! And they do have trouble jest like any auto maker If you want a JAP truck and that is OK I will keep soporting are auto makers. The JAPS copy are auto and most of there other products.

 

Update

Well, I finally fixed the rear door. It was exactly what Jim showed in his pictures, but I had 8 wires cut. I can't believe Chrysler has such a poor design on this. After some solder and tape, the radio, door lock and window all work again, but who knows for how long. I've attached a picture of what I saw when I pulled the cover back. As you can see, the wires coming from the door are not visible. They're buried in the loom. I had to use needle nose pliers to pull them out enough to reattach them. Once they were all pulled out, I held the rubber cover back with a pair of padded vise grips. It made it easier to solder. I have a feeling it would have been quicker if I had the door panels off, but this was pretty simple any way. The whole repair took about 30 minutes.

Bob

 

Add me to this list.

I am having these problems with my rear doors. The right rear door is totaly disabled now (window and lock for sure) and the left door has an intermittent working lock (I suspect the wires are broke, but the ends are making contact sometimes). I have been having the problem for quite a while and it is really getting to be irritating!



I wanted to bump this and ask thoughts for those who have done the repair. My soldering skills are non-existant and I agree that the crimp connectors will most likely lead to breaks on either side of the connectors.



I was at the dealer the other day and asked them the price of the wiring harness. Almost bumped my head on the concrete when I fell... just shy of $200.



My questions follow. Feel free to answer.



1) I wonder if I can get the harness after market? I didn't think to get the part number from the dealer, but when I get time I will go by my local parts store and see what they can get.



2) On the harness between the b-pillar and the door, can you remove the existing wires from the factory plugs without doing damage? If so, you could "build" your own $200 harness for $5. This is the route I want to go, but it all hinges on the ability to get the old wires out of the plugs and putting the new wires in the plugs. Anybody looked into this?



Sorry for the long post, but any input you have on my questions will be greatly appreciated. TIA!

 

No room for crimp connectors in there. I have repaired mine twice. Have to use solder or replace wires. If we could track down the oem maker of the harness we might be able to get a better price.

John