Rear axle oil seal leaking AGAIN!

My left rear axle oil seal is leaking again. This will be the third time I’ve replaced it. I’m following the procedure in the Haynes manual and I’m asking if there are any tips or tricks that I’m missing. I really don’t want to do this again!

 

Yea I think i did mine twice but been good since

 

Mark, in case you forgot or weren't aware, check your breather tube. I replaced a leaking oil seal on my wife's truck a few years back, started leaking out of nowhere... turns out the axle breather tube was plumb full of dirt and dust, which in turn blew out the axle seal. I now try and blow that bad boy clear about once a year or so when I check fluids. (We live in fine alkali dust land) Hopefully, this helps you as well!

 

Good advice! I’ll check that out, thanks!

 

My secretary’s 4 runner had the rear end resealed twice at the dealership before I took a look and found the vent plugged.......that being said, the AAM axles are notorious for wheel seal leakage. Make sure you aren’t overfilling.

 

I replaced both rear axle seals on our truck about 18 months ago. One of them is leaking again. Pretty sure I used Napa seals. Perhaps just a failed seal, not sure. The truck has not been driven all that much since the seals were replaced. I recall that adjusting the bearings was unusual on one side of the truck but I didn't keep record of which side. The seal doesn't show any signs of trouble aside from the leak. The bearings and races felt good and looked very decent. They are probably the original bearings (179k miles on them). Bearings are stamped 'Timken' and 'USA'.

I would simply replace the bearings and seal and be on my way but I don't know about reliability issues with today's bearings and races. I might ought to put the thing back together to see if that was the side with the bearing adjustment issue.

I didn't have the special socket for the hub bearing nut (Miller 8954) when I changed the seals last so I went by feel. Perhaps Lisle 31550 is the same tool at a better price? I sent a question to Lisle to find out.

I'm open to suggestions, criticism, etc.

 

Looks like the Lisle 31550 has 9 nubs, the miller 8954 has 6, so not directly. Perhaps you could file 6 of them off the 31550 and use the remaining 3.

The TorqueKing QT1025 says in its description that it will work on 2003-2018 Dodge Rams.

Or, if you want to save money, you supposedly can use a Powerbuilt 648475 and use a file or a mini-grinder to trim the pins to fit.

I haven't tried any of these myself, it's just hearsay.

 

Thank you, User113.

I contacted Lisle about the tool. A nice fellow from Lisle said part number 27400 would be the correct socket for the rear axle hub bearing nut. That one may take a few weeks to get. The local O’Reilly parts store had something close, but not a perfect fit, their’s is an Evertough 67037 ($13). This one barely fits but may fit better with some filing of one of the tabs. I’d only buy that one as a last resort.

In order to recheck the bearings, I reassembled the rear axle hub on mine, torquing to 22 ft. lbs. while turning the hub assembly, then backing off the nut 30 degrees plus a bit more to align the locking notch. That’s the procedure from the factory service manual. The bearings feel very smooth. I setup a dial indicator to check the end play. I had to use a pair of pry bars to get any movement that was measurable. Measurement was 0.002”. Service manual says 0.001 to 0.100” so that seems ok.

Previously I had checked the bearings with a mechanic’s stethoscope. They were absolutely quiet.

Bearings seem ok so it looks like maybe I should put a new seal in, replace the oil saturated e-brake shoes, and check it frequently for another leak.

Blessings in the name of Jesus Christ,
Paul Lohr

 

I used the TorqueKing on my 08 Dually and sanded the axle housing smooth and greased the seals and they have been leak free for 2yrs. I watched this video and it helped me out