Steering box slop

A bit of background: I had a Red Head steering box that failed with only 30k miles on it, I replaced it with a no-name OEM box and noticed some continued dead space in the steering wheel. Knowing the steering issues on these trucks, I replaced the trackbar (Thuren), tie rod, drag link, and ball joints over the last couple weeks. I also installed the CJC bushings in the steering column. I checked the steering column shaft and all seems to be tight as well. Took it to a good alignment shop with the Thuren specs for my truck. The truck drives really well and straight, however sitting still with the engine off, there is about 3 inches (1.5 either way) of slop in the wheel before it gets hard to steer or the tires move. With the engine running this seems to be a little less, but it is still there and noticeable. As I recall the Red Head felt like this too. I hate to spend more money on another steering box, but it seems this is the only place where the play is coming from, especially when this one only has less than 5k miles on it. Anyone else have this experience, or is this 'normal'?

 

Have in you inspected the steering column joints?

 

The steering play you are describing could be quite normal, especially since you say the, "truck drives really well and straight."

Where the steering input shaft enters the steering gearbox, there is a directional control valve that is sensitive to torque applied by the steering input shaft. With the engine off, there is no power assist, so the directional valve will be forced to the wide open position in the direction of steering. This will account for some steering wheel travel with no action of travel to the steering linkage - no tire movement.

With the engine running, steering wheel play will be reduced, but there will still be some steering wheel travel before action is seen at the tires because the steering forces must overcome the static friction of the dead weight setting on the front tires. The play will be less (than when the engine is off) because now there is power assist from the power steering pump, so the directional valve will not have to move to the wide open position.

Once you are driving straight down the road, the static friction is gone and considerably less energy is required to make a slight change in truck direction, consequently, "the truck drives really well and straight."

And, of course, do make sure that there are no worn steering components.

- John

 

At 30k did you bother to ask RedHead for a replacement?

 

I did inspect the steering column joint and installed the CJC bushings as I mentioned above.

I called RedHead, but the warranty was expired because it was 3 years old. The output shaft seal failed, and dumped all the fluid around the shaft and then wouldn't steer. RedHead said "we've never heard of that before" wrote me off...I was disappointed to say the least. On the phone, they were not even really interested in discussing the case and never offered to send it back so they could look at it if they "never heard of it..."

So when driving there is still a small amount of wander(slop) in the steering wheel, I feel that it is excessive, but don't really know for sure, I guess that is what i am trying to find out. All of my other vehicles are rack/pinion IFS and they are super tight, but the truck seems like it should be better.

 

I had the U joint in the Tilt wheel part of the steering shaft fail. Only fix was a new steering column.

 

You can not at all compare IFS rack&pinion to a steering gear live axle, just not.
It will never ever in a hundred years be as tight as the former one, this is technically not possible.

Stop waisting money.

By the way there are no steering issues in the Gen4 trucks, they are all made up from aftermarket company's that wants to still sell their stuff that was needed 20 years and 2 Generation earlier. Only the alignment specs are crap from factory.

 

Ozy I agree. My 11 and current DRW’s both feel like they are on rails. The 15 has 98k.

 

1.5" of play each direction with the truck off is normal, sound like you are just use to IFS.

Sorry Oz but thats just not correct, I have seen plenty of track bar , Tie rid end and all joint issues on the newer trucks too, its not as common but to say they are made up is just plain false.

 

Glad someone brought this up. Yes the 4th gen trucks are”better “ than earlier models but they still have their issues. Having owned a 4th gen , lived through its death wobble. So bad that it tore a brand new track bar’s end bushings apart.. I think I can speak from experience. That adventure was so bad I still to this day don’t know how I didn’t roll the truck. That much slop is not normal. You need to start at the steering box and work your way up to the wheel. Like I said I finally found the steering column I joint failed. I rebuilt the front end from the hubs in , ball joints track bar control arms steering’s box, steering shafts and column. When I sold it it drove like a new 4th gen with very little slop.

 

I also respectfully disagree...while 4th gens are much better, they are not perfect for sure. There are steering issues on 4th gens for sure, especially the track bar. I drew a line on the frame side of my track bar thru the centerline of the bolt onto the bar while the truck was sitting at rest, steering the truck back an forth, the trackbar would move in reference to the line 3/16 to 1/4 inch each way...on a new OEM trackbar with only about 5k miles of road use on it! This is what lead me down the road for the heavy track bar and fixing the rest of it too...hence the original question. I have done soooo much reading about steering boxes, every company and person has an opinion, but i don't think any person or company is an "expert" They all have their gimmicks of what they replace or what is better, but they all differ too. I just want a well made, no frills, no slop box that will last 150k miles...like they all should!

 

I was the shop manager for a very reputable Dodge / Ram suspension company for 8 years and can honestly say all the so called "gimmecks" were 100% made out of demand for a better option then OEM due to high failure rates of the OEM parts. Maybe im a bit jaded as I talked with 1000's of customers with trucks from 94-2022 that all have had issues with OEM parts but there is a reason so many aftermarket companies can stay in business.

 

No aftermarket company has the resources to spend that Chrysler or GM or Ford has on hand . That said the oem manufactures are in the business of selling New trucks. And if they make it last you wouldn’t replace it. There is always a better way to do something. Carli or EMF ball joints for example. But we the consumer pay for their research. In the end it’s a compromise price for quality. I’m really surprised that Red head didn’t stand behind their product. They are one of the better rebuilder’s.