Parting out '05 Dodge 77,000 origonal miles COMPLETE (except Driv fender, hood, grill, bumper)

Hi,
I bought this truck with 14,000 miles and I have serviced it regularly, using oil testing during driving. I have a logbook of service and maintenance. I put a bunch of money into the transmission Gorend conv., billet input, shift kit, bigger pan, good flex plate. I put another turbo on it's a stock '05 turbo over a S-400. Smarty. Good mech lift pump, 2 canister Glacier fuel filter system.
Anyway I wrecked it in 2011 and I've been storing it for that long. I've started it up every 6 months or less. I think with the low miles that the longblock is worth $6000. I haven't set prices on the other stuff.
The body is pretty cherry except for left front of vehicle. Ruined Dr. door, left fender, grill, bumper. It broke off one of the ears that mount the intercooler (plastic IC for that year)
I have a '94, so I don't need the rail pressure gauge anymore, and I have the pillar mount and I think a extra pressure gauge (boost gauge)
Richard A. [email][email protected][/email]

It's locked in a garage in downtown Sacramento. Purchaser can pull engine there. Let me know if you want more pictures.

 

Pictures. How much for the entire truck? Any reason it can't be repaired? The damage described isn't that bad esp. if one can avoid a salvage title brand. Did the airbags go off?

You know the value repaired is $15K plus. Maybe higher now due to crazy market and lack of vehicles.

 

Thanks for your reply! I never did take it to a body shop to get an estimate.
The front suspension had the drivers wheel broken off, so that also would need to be repaired. There needs to be another driver's side door, drivers side fender, hood, grill, bumper. I heard from a guy that looked at it that the frame may be been 'triangled' a little.

I really have to get rid of this thing, I've had it stored since 2011. I need to move within a couple of months, so my storage (where I've had it) will no longer be available. I also took all the smog stuff off when I got it (because up to that point they were not checking emissions on diesels in Ca, but they changed the law) but I have everything I took off, even the catalytic converter.

Do you think a individual may want to fix the truck? I wonder if I could sell it to such a individual. It only has 77,000 original miles on it, that has to make it worth something.

Any ideas would help. I'd like to advertise it widely but it looks like auto trader and truck trader don't have a section for parting out, or auto parts. I looked a craigslist, and of course it's free, but there are THOUSANDS of people parting out. I think it would be best marketed to the diesel community.

Thanks for ANY info or ideas on how to get rid of this thing (for a REASONABLE price, of course)

 

The airbags did NOT go off. Interior is cherry, really good shape.

 

I never thought I’d see a “cars in barns” situation with one of these trucks.

 

Not needing to know financial info, you could ask some local trade schools if you could donate for a tax write off. Or ask your tax person if that would work in your favor.

 

Is the title salvage or clean. IMO it doesn't matter so much in this market, but, it can for the miles. I have seen these 2WD trucks go for $17K with 150K on the clock recently. Someone may want to fix and flip (resell) it. There be room to do so depending on what you will take to get it out of your hair.

Word: I don't see the pictures of the interior. The wear part of the driver's seat, dash being crack free. Bed and tailgate condition... You sell vehicles on good pictures. Put the buyer's butt in the seat and show "cherry" from the comfort of their armchair PC. You get lowballers from bad or lack of pictures. And knock the dust off it. Mobile detailing if you need too. Shiny sells for more $, period.

I would list this on CL, pay the $5 they want to keep spammers off, and list it as a barn-find project.

Ebay has a larger reach but costs around $50 to list.

Alternatively get some bids from a body shop that has a good reputation for frame repairs. A frame shop may be a separate shop. The estimators come out to you. Frame damage is easy to fix just costing $. We just had one frame fixed that was bent so bad it was tearing the metal from being rear-ended. They cut the bad frame sections out and replaced them. (Sadly lack of specific required safety item parts used/new in good condition totaled the 18 year old vehicle.)

You kept this for awhile. IMO it's worth checking out the cost to get her running again. Esp. as it will help you know what to ask figuring it's worth at least $15K running with new tires on it. (IMO Those old ones hold air and are no longer any good from age.) The upgrades you did also add value. You may make more if you have it fixed yourself ... and then decide to keep it...

 

Wanted to thank those who gave me the 'clean up first' idea, because it's part salesmanship. I went and washed it totally, then started looking at the damage to wheel (broke spindle) I've now got everything to fix the wheel, and I think now that I will keep this thing. It's in so good condition, aside from damage, that it's worth spending a few thousand on it to fix it.
Made me so sick to look at it, that I didn't for 10 years. I should have looked at it earlier.

Thank you very much for the inspiration!

 

I've picked up all the parts for the left drivers wheel, and I am now replacing parts. #ad
It broke the spindle, and I had to replace upper A arm because bearing was bad. I'm now down to the lower ball joint and I have to get the old one out first and apparently press the new one in.
You can see the 'waffle' marks from my framing hammer on lower ball joint, it didn't do anything.
What kind of press do I need, or what tool do I need to replace this?
I'll run down to a couple of auto parts places and see what they say regarding tools.

 

Most auto parts stores BJ press rental tools are not heavy enough to push them out. At least not around here in the rust belt. You will likely need a HD set which isnt cheap. May be better off removing the arm and finding someone with a hydraulic press to push the old one out and the new one in.

 

It's really STUCK on there!
I may do exactly as you say, but I'll have to hold the big coil spring too before loosening lower A arm. Like you said, it seems these ball joints are a 'bridge too far' for the puller I'm trying to use.

 

Yes sir, you will need a HD coil spring compressor. Again probably too much to ask from your typical auto parts tool rental. The good news is it is still a cheaper tool to buy than the HD BJ press provided you have access to a hydraulic press.

 

I pressed mine out with a 57.00 set from Harbor Freight and new ones back in

 

Is there a reason why you are going to install an oversized/knurled ball joint?

 

I managed to get the lower ball joint out by putting the tool on again, and when it was cranked down so hard it wouldn't move further, I took a big hammer and chisel and attempted to drive the ball joint out. After a couple of whacks, the tension in the bolt loosened and I kept on cranking it down and hitting the ball joint with hammer, it FINALLY came out. Since the length of the thing I needed to compress was slightly longer when out, I had to make a spacer out of large pipe, so I could press the new BJ in. So far, so good. I stopped for the day after I noted I needed another zerc fitting for upper ball joint (previous OEM didn't have a zerc, I guess it was already full of grease) so I went and picked those up.

 

Ozymandias-I don't understand your question. I wrecked my truck and the wheel fell off. It broke the steering knuckle/spindle. So I am putting another used one in. It's just a stock BJ from Napa (for the lower) and the upper I had to buy with another upper A arm, because the upper ball joint apparently wasn't a user serviced part (couldn't grease it, no zerc fitting). I couldn't replace the broken upper ball joint without buying another upper A arm with the BJ.

 

I'm pretty happy with today's progress. I think I'll be able to drive this thing after another wheel is put on (already purchased w/ used tire) Can not believe I've waited 10 years before taking a serious look at this wreck. Guess it's because I had a friend store it, so I didn't have logistical problems, I could put the 'fix' off.
However the friend where I was storing the truck at died. Life continues and there is buyer for house. Either I tow the truck somewhere else for storage or I fix it or I sell it.

 

Raxley, what Ozy means is the ball joint itself. Your new ball joint has knurls on the area that presses into the control arm. If you compare the new ball joint to the original or an original replacement the area that presses into the arm is smooth. Those knurls are designed for control arms that have "loose" bores, generally from having multiple ball joints pressed in and out. When you use that style ball joint with the knurls it will generally make it so that you can not use an OEM replacement ball joint again should your new ball joint wear out.

Not the end of the world, just something to keep in mind for the future.

Good job and please keep us posted on your progress! I am excited for you and your maiden voyage.

 

Can anybody tell me how this steering arm is removed from shaft from steering box? It's a machined shaft with teeth machined in on the back. I don't see any way to hold the machined shaft while tightening and untightening.
This broken part of the steering box, to the left of hex shaft, does anybody know what this does? For some type of adjustment regarding steering? It doesn't seem to leak, and I think the broken plastic 'plug' could still be turned or replaced with a non broken part.
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You can see the new part below and to the right, the old part broke at the socket part of shaft #ad