Drain on Trailer Batteries

OK- I'm no electrical engineer, but I would think that my batteries (2 deep cycle Interstates) on my 5er should be staying charged a bit longer than 2-3 weeks in storage. So I'm assuming that something is draining them (duh!) BUT! What should I start checking first? The obvious is already checked, I don't have a 12v fridge, the break away is connected, there are no lights or devices that have been left on, etc. Any ideas



Kev

 

Power Theifs?

You have probably done these but anyway... .

Some TV's have an instant on feature. . uses power when off

Propane,Carbon MOnoxide detectors,use power when wired into

system.



Our new 5er has a Battery disconnect switch. Good idea.

'course could just take a cable off the batteries.

On our old 5er I had homemade battery disconnect. . Both halves of a 220V dryer plug and receptle. . crude but it worked.



Might suggest to disconnect the POS cable and put a 12V ckt tester light between the cable and the battery post. If it lights,

something is ON. Pull the fuses one at a time in the fuse box to isolate the circuit. . But if it is a parasite draw(propane detector etc)

leave the cable off or rig up a disconnet switch.

Maybe give you some ideas,or not(G)

Fuzz

 

Dkevdog,



Usually a gas detector and/or a display in a stereo with the time of day displayed is still drawing amperage. Check the 12 volt panel to see if the rv manufacturor included a disconnect switch. Also some power converters let you leave the rv plugged in all the time and keep the batteries charged and desulfieded by "execisizing" them everyday!





Hope this helps, George

 

Here's from a friends frustrating experience. His new Wildcat was doing the exact same thing except batteries dead in 5 days. Had gas detector disconnected, stereo etc. no change. Dealer replaced both batteries and same thing, they had no clue.



Finally, he figured it out. There was some sort of heater strip between the freezer and refridgerator door that is there supposedly to keep condensation from forming. It came down to "what is that switch on the wall do" and while measuring current with a meter inline, could stop the current draw. Later finding out that it powered this heat strip.



What a headache that one was.



ic

 

Check your T. V. amplifier switch and your outside storage compartment light switch on the inside. Mine was on and drained my battery, was real fun trying to find this one.



John



1996 HR trailer

 

You can buy a disconnect switch out of a parts house, Calif. Forestry has them mounted in their fire trucks. You cut the ground cable, mount it where ever you like, then just throw the switch.

I've been thinking about it, so I don't have to remove a fuse that goes to my gas sensor.

 

Always start tracking down current draw problems from the batteries and work to the potental draws. Start by removing the cable to your battery bank and check for dirty or corroded terminals in all ground wires and connections and if any are found repair. Then ,check all positive connections and tighten and clean. Next, connect an amp meter in series with the + battery terminal and cable. Remove all fuses or power draw circuits not fused. Make sure there is no current draw. If there is a draw with everything disconnected, your short is in the wireing between the battery and the fuse block or through the ground circuit. If no draw is found, start by inserting fuses back one at a time to see current draws. Most refers will have a parasitic draw through thier circuits as well as TVs, anything with a pilot light, digital displays, smoke and lp detectors, chargers and even some electric water heaters. Add up the draws from all circuits and you may find with all circuits connected the parasitic draw will be as high as 5 amps. More then enough to drain 2 batteries in 2-3 weeks.

Add a battery dissconect switch to isolate your battery bank from parasitic draws when stored.

Good luck,

-Paul R. Haller-

 

Disconnect Switch

Kinda sounds like a switch is in the offing.

www.wranglernw.com has 'em. Good people to deal with.

 

You should put the 12v. cut-out switch on the POSITIVE side, not the ground.

That will isolate the battery while sitting for the winter, AND you can isolate the battery from overcharging while on shore power for extended lengths of time.

 

If you determine that the battery drain is normal, and is caused by radio, CO monitors, etc. , and you don't want to add a battery disconnect switch, you might want to consider adding a solar panel to keep the batteries charged. Check my sig. for information on RV Solar. The system in my 5er is pretty elaborate as it is usually our only source of power when we are camping. A much simplier system would keep the battery charged when not in use. I leave our batteries in all winter with no problems at all. Don't even loose the radio station programming.



ken

 

You guys are awesome... ... . Oo. Oo. I'm 99. 9% sure that's what it was. There is switch on upper side of the freezer compartment for "exterior moisture control" It was on. I'm charging the rig now and will see how long they last.



Should have known the dealer would'nt have a clue. Knew you guys would:-laf .



I think I'll be installing a disconnect just to be safe. Yesterday I found one of my soon to be ex-employees messing around with the electric jacks . Like I said, soon to be ex-employee !!!!



Thanks for your help!



Kev

 

Kev,



I thought most newer trailers came with a power disconnect switch for the 12V system and also one for the power jacks. If yours didn't, I'd install one, at least for the jacks. Don't want some goof playing with the jack switch while I'm camping... .

 

Kev,



Great to see that this may be it. When I get setup with a fifth wheel, this will be one of the first switches I'll be looking for.



ic

 

If I don't remove the 1 amp fuse for the CO2 alarm, my battery will drain in a week or so. If I take it out, it lasts for a very long time.