Odyssey batteries dead in 10 months

Late last December, I replaced a set of Odyssey batteries on my truck that were about a year & a half old. Both tested bad. What are the odds that these are bad after ten months. I have a BatteryMinder 2012-AGM maintenance charger that I use regularly. Usually half of the nights (when I work the firehouse or ambulance) they usually don't get plugged in. However since July 1 until this week they've been plugged in every night since I've been off injured.
This morning I went out and there wasn't enough voltage to start the truck. A quick jump got me started. This morning was the second night in a row that the truck wasn't plugged in overnight.
Thoughts?

 

Batteries are finicky for sure at times, and advanced test, check, and recharge might be warranted.

I downloaded the manual for that charger it has some interesting and at times conflicting info, but it's very similar to the ones I use.

Are any of the lights indicating any issues?

Here is the summary of what mode it's in.
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It's actually an interesting little unit, it will do a Constant Current charge for lower capacity cells then if able to bring that up to a certain voltage it flips to a Constant Voltage charge, then eventually a Float Voltage.

Pretty slick box, but there is a lot going on there.

The basic instructions in section 15 actually say to hook to the positive battery post, then to a chassis ground away from the battery.

The quick connect instructions say to connect to the battery posts..

It would be interesting to take some voltage readings when this thing is operating and they double check the mode of operation it's in to confirm its actually working properly.

You might have to actually do one at a time to recover a cell, but it notes that it could take 2 weeks to recover a cell! and I believe that at 0.5A Constant Current if deeply discharged. SO, I don't see that as an option using this to recover a cell.

It's probably worth a call to their tech support and see what they say about this set up.

I personally don't see an issue hooking to one battery, but the instructions are written for a reason.

https://www.batteryminders.com/2012agm-12v-charger-maintainer-sealed-agm-lead-acid-batteries

Troubleshooting
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Forgot the book.

 

There are no amber lights on indicating any draw. When I arrived home this morning, I plugged it in, and it started on the very first green light, then within just a few minutes was at the second green light. The blue “de sulfation“ like always blanks, and the temperature compensation like blinks like always.
Going to keep it plugged in when I’m not using it this weekend, and Monday sometime I will go to the place where I purchased them. They have a specific battery tester for these batteries. I’ll just have to see what it says.

 

Yep have them load tested, but might need to check the voltages at each battery to make sure the set up is working properly for the charger, it's fully possible there is something with that connect to chassis ground not battery ground.

Would be nice to know they are charging as a full system how you have it hooked up.

It's a slick charger and reads like it is capable of charging alot of cells (12 cells if I recall) even for being a 2A charger, I have a few 5A and 10A NOCO ones. The way it reads its designed for your cells, it calls them out by MFG all over the place.

 

My truck wouldn't start on a cool morning as I had one battery go bad after one month after purchase. NAPA replaced this battery under warranty. I also replace the other battery at my cost, the sales rep couldn't believe I was replacing the other battery at the same time. It is just me I like to have both batteries at the same level of performance and battery life.

Have them load tested and check your battery cables for worn, damaged and or loose grounds. Also look at your battery post connections and the post it's self this could be internally lose. Make sure there is no corrosion around the post and battery clamps, this would impede charging of the batteries.

So, batteries can and do go bad earlier in their service life. Just my $0.02

 

Modern trucks have electronics that draw a little power even when it is shut off. My 2013 will draw down the batteries within 3 months, even though I keep the key fob away and in a metal coffee can to shield it. If a fob is nearby, such as in the glove compartment, the truck stays "awake" and draws more power thinking you will want to start it soon. I got the 20 amp Odyssey charger and use it every month or two to keep the batteries charged.

 

I think with a fob nearby, the truck only stays "awake" for a few minutes. I've left a fob in my truck since pretty much day one. The factory batteries lasted 6 years and I never had a charger on it.
I tested with a clamp meter last night and with out the charger and the truck off. I got about 0.05 amps draw.
Im really thinking its the batteries again. I just cant understand how I've gotten two bad pairs in a row.
Wondering if I should look into something other than Odyssey.

 

Yeah 2 bad sets I would have to look somewhere else or talk to tech support and see what's going on, and go back to that charger, it might not be working as you think, constant under or over charging one cell of the pair may cause issues.

Is there a warranty for these cells, when I got my Yellow Tops from Optima they were not purchased from a Vendor who can warranty them, I think I knew that but rolled the dice anyway. Kinda like buying from Amazon at times you have the Amazon warranty but not much of a MFG warranty because the seller could be shady and not a real retailer.

Some sort of readings on each cell will probably help. Good info above about checking the basics.

What's the Date Code? Are they matched sets or way off? See attached PDF.

From their FAQ Page for their Batteries.

https://www.odysseybattery.com/faqs/

If the battery is used in a starting application, the alternator should provide between 14.2 and 14.5 volts at the battery terminals. In cycling applications, the absorb voltage should be between 14.4 and 14.8 volts, while the float setting (if applicable) should be between 13.5 and 13.8 volts.

Hopefully that Advanced tester and charger can get you some better diagnosis of what's up.

 

I think the Project Farm guy testing placed the Walmart Maxx Everstart batteries at the top. My factory batteries lasted over 8 years so I just got another set of those from the dealer. Little more expensive than the Walmart batteries.

 

I've got odysseys in both my trucks and if the optimas in the jeep ever went out, I'd put a pair there too. I don't think it's the batteries.

 

I leave the fob in the truck when I’m not driving it. It’s in the garage windows down. Also batteries are always plugged into a Norco 5 when im not using it . I really think the battery’s need to be on a trickle charger as much as possible for long battery life . My high dollar $350 slide in truck camper battery is now 7 years old and doing just fine. It stays in the camper year round but always on a trickle when not being used. Battery’s are storage devices and need to be in a state of charge to do well . Just my thoughts.

 

I could hear electronics working in my ‘18 when I would leave the key fob inside the truck, silent when the fob wasn’t in the truck. I don’t have enough time around the ‘22 to know if it’s the same, but I suspect it is. I don’t leave the fob in it very long, and try to hook to my NOCO Genius 5 when parked more than 2-3 days.

I like the NOCO because it actually stops charging when the battery is 100% SOC and waits for the battery to drop and then starts to trickle charge again.