Mega Cab Purchasing Advice

First, sorry for the lengthy post, just want to be clear about what I am looking for to get the best input I can from folks on TDR

Currently have a 2004.5 2500 QC, LB 6sp. Love everything about the truck except the fact that te cab is not a true crew cab. I have 2 growing kids, it's getting too tight for all of us on long road trips. Decided to start looking into selling mine and buying a Mega Cab, that's where I am looking for advice and experience from all of you.

Use of the vehicle will be as a work truck and family road trip vehicle. I am a carpenter, need a truck to haul around tools and materials, pull some light trailers up to maybe 6000 lbs. Don't own or plan to get a heavy camper. Realistically 90 % of the time not pulling trailer. Fuel economy important to me , my current Cummins gets 22 - 24 on the highway during warm weather months, sits at 1700 rpm at 60 mph in 6th on the flat. NV5600. With winter fuel and using 4x4 a good deal in the snow been getting 18 mixed driving. Truck is stock.

So, my main questions:

My budget will keep me looking at older Mega Cabs, 2006 to 2008 or so. Thoughts on 5.9 vs the 6.7? Do the 6.7s do well with fuel economy once deleted? Best just to stick with the 5.9?

All of my life I have only had trucks with manual transmissions. From little 4 cylinders to all of my Dodges. Like picking my gears, as well as control in bad weather. Mega Cabs are hard to find in a manual, and it seems that other than a small manufacturing window, all of the 5.9 models have the first gen G56 transmissions. My major concern with it is the gear ratios, given that I am not doing too much pulling. Don't want to lose the low rpm highway mileage that I currently get with the NV5600. Thoughts on the 48re? Given my intended use, does it seem like a reasonable option? Or do I look at an 07/08 that has been deleted for the newer 68rfe 6 sp auto? Stay away from autos all together?

Not in a rush to sell my truck and purchase a Mega cab. I like to take my time and do research, get input and make the best decision possible given my needs and budget. Any input from you all will help me with this process. Been doing a lot of reading on the forums about pros / cons of my potential choices, thought it would just be easier to start a thread and see what folks think. Don't want a debate, just some solid ideas based on others experience. Thanks for putting up with the long post.

 

Just about the Auto Trannys.
I have the 48RE in my Truck and I'm happy with it, it does its job well.
But I have the Durango with the 66RFE and I love that a lot more.

Both transmission are proven reliable units, the 68RFE even more then the 48RE.

If I had the choice, I would go straight for the 68RFE today.

 

I am like you, manual or nothing. When it comes a day I can no longer drive a manual truck, I will ride my horse.

As far as finding an 06-07 5.9 mega with a G56 they are out there. You might have to travel to find one. Probably going to be $20-$28K. Don't be afraid of the 6.7 either. They run great with a couple upgrades.

CarGuru's and Autotrader are good places to start. You can filter out the automatics, I do it all the time =).

 

OK, I am writing about my truck which is a 2008, 6.7L Dodge Ram Mega Cab with the 68RFE auto and 3:73 differentials, 4X4, tire size is LT285/70R/17. I have gauges for Boost, EGT's and transmission temps. The truck is also equipped with MAG-Hytec deep dish pans on both differentials and transmission. This adds extra oil and cooling, when pulling at highway speed of 1,600 RPM's at 60 to 65 MPH in 6th gear the trans normally runs about 180 to 185 F. When I stop and check the rear diff cover for temps, the cover is normally at 145F. The transmission oil and both filters are changed every 40,000 miles, differentials about every 60,000 miles. I except to get 200,000 miles out of my transmission before any overhaul work is done.

Another thing is all stock trucks sold by FCA, Mega Cabs are short beds trucks 6'-5" beds. There are some that have had the frame stretched and have a long bed added as a custom truck. This might matter to you if you haul a lot of material and need a long bed.

The truck went under the knife and loss a lot of excess weight, about at 20,000 miles. When this was done I decided to run 60HP/120lb.-ft. torque over stock, that is all that Smarty recommends as the most HP/TQ you can use with the stock transmission. I have the S67 set on level 3 with everything set to default except torque management which is 2. I have had some fuel mileage readings in the 20 MPG range but not too many. I do pull a heavy 5th wheel trailer with my truck so, most of my fuel mileage has been calculated pulling a 5er on the highway. Which normally between 10 and 12 MPG's. In town driving around my fuel mileage is between 13 and 15 MPG's

 

my 08 out pulls and gets better mpg then my early 04 all day long. the 6.7 is a monster!! and very nice to drive.
that said its for sale, as my kids are grown and gone. PM if interested.

 

Gentleman,

I appreciate all of your input, particularly when it comes to transmissions. It sounds like whatever I find out there I will compromise something that I want to get a truck that has the balance between fuel economy and towing ability.

One more piece around the future, I currently live in SW Colorado, relatively small town, not a great deal of stop/start driving. Get the truck through gears quickly and cruise onto town in 6th. My wife just got into a graduate school program near Pittsburgh, PA. So moving the family out that way. Still planning on pounding nails, getting to jobs will be in a mix of driving, some rural back roads, freeway and stop start traffic. An auto would be easier to drive in city conditions....

How is moving through the gears in a G56 in city driving for those that have one?

If I find an older 48re auto that needs a transmission at some point, is it possible to convert it to a built 68re? Would it be worth it/

Once we are relocated, our plan is to take long road trips out west, visit national parks, go on long river trips, visit friends, etc in the West. Hence the push for the highway fuel economy. On long trips putting 4k to 5k miles on a vehicle, would like to maximize every gallon of fuel.

Anyway, I appreciate the time and effort that you have all taken to answer my questions.

 

On Highway Speed there isn't much difference in milage because of the TC Lockup.

 

If you don't want to battle with all of the expensive smog and exhaust treatment stuff, you will want to find a 5.9 powered truck. I have a December 2009 built, 2007, 5.9, 6 speed stick. I wish the 68RFE had come out with the 5.9 because it has good OD ratios, one for towing, a .82 to 1 and a empty or light loaded .62 6th gear. My first dodge, a 2001.5 with 50hp injectors and a programmer with a built 47RE which is the same ratios as the 48RE, I didn't like it for towing because you were either in 3rd gear which is direct or 1 to 1 and the 4th gear which is the overdrive was a .69 ratio. There was too much gap between the gears. Your NV5600 has a .72, 6th.
I have looked into converting my 2007 to a 68RFE and as said above it is expensive but cheaper than a new truck.

 

Ok, I have been doing some research and found several possibilities of vehicles that fit my needs here in my neck of the woods. If you have time and want to take a look at the postings and make any comments or recommendations on either vehicle, feel free.

https://westslope.craigslist.org/cto/d/pleasant-view-2007-dodge-laramie-mega/6828032988.html

This vehicle is 75 miles away from my home, makes looking at it easy, kind of a reach in terms of my budget. I talked to the owner, said his wife has gotten up to 25 mpg on the highway, he sounds like he is meticulous about the upgrades and maintenance. Saw a few pics, too snowy for him to get some good ones.

https://rockies.craigslist.org/cto/d/gypsum-07-dodge-mega-cab-59/6835348944.html

This vehicle is a solid 6 hours away. Emailed the owner has towed an aluminum 2 horse trailer with it, he said it gets 20 mpg empty on the highway. Nice looking truck.

In terms of deletes, if I relocate to a place that requires emissions testing, can a person be fined for being out of compliance?

Thanks for your views!

 

I noticed in one of your earlier posts that you are going to be in the Pittsburgh area possibly. Depending on where you are traveling in the Pittsburgh area, a manual transmission is just fine. The only exception to that is if you are traveling 376, 51, or 28 in to the city itself. Plan on 30+ min of stop and go traffic coming from any direction, especially around the tunnels.

As far as deletes are concerned here in PA. You will have an increasingly difficult time getting a deleted vehicle inspected and registered here in PA. We don't have diesel emissions testing. But, visual inspection is required for the annual safety inspection and there is a state issued checklist that the inspection station must complete for the required emissions equipment. If it isn't there, it will not pass.

Let me know if you have any questions concerning things here in PA. And if you are looking to relocate, let me know what area you are interested in and I can help steer you away from the less than desirable areas.

 

Thanks for the heads up on the emissions stuff there. I will check with the owner of the 07 and see what they did, stealth or not.

We have no state inspection or emissions here, folks just don't have to think about it at all.

I will PM you about the ' burgh, I grew up there and still have all of my family there, my wife got into grad school at Geneva College in Beaver falls. So Beaver area it is

 

I'm approx 1.5 hrs south of Beaver.

 

I would try and buy the 07 Mega cab with the 5.9L Cummins engine in the truck. Why? This will be easier to pass the inspection process in PA for smog related components in my very humble opinion! Most owners of the 6.7L Cummins when they do the delete process will not hang on to the deleted components. They are scrapped by the person who deleted the truck, making money on the scrap value of the DPF and the Cat in the exhaust! So, in order to do a stealth, delete which can be done, you will need to find someone who has these components laying around. Then to buy these which will not be cheap at least $1,000 or more plus labor to do the installation of these components which will be needed to do a stealth delete. You will also need to gut the DPF and some other components before you can reinstall them.

 

i have all the deleted components from my delete. goes with the truck.

 

I have an 07.5 Mega Dually G56 full delete and it gets 12-13 mpg no matter how I drive it which is usually like an old man. It’s got 34” tires and rounds out about 2k RPMs at 60 ish. Also keep in mind any 07.5 and newer will have a Variable geometry turbo or VGT if it is Stock. VGTs are problematic after 100k and can cause issues, my EB stops working after it heats to full operating temp around 195. They can be cleaned but new ones are 2500+.

 

VGT is problematic after 100K? really? mine has 199K and zero issues and works amazing. tuning can help the turbo., if you don't have a good tuner, they will soot up.