MaxBrake Controllers

I am in need to locate 2 Maxbrake controllers that you don't want or needs repair, I have hooked to a trailer that somehow is/was wired wrong. It burnt my controller. I was able to have an electronics store make some repairs but there is a chip/diode/resistor that he can not identify that has a blister on it. If i can get 2 more then maybe I can cannibilize for parts. Hope someone can help me out.

 

Nobody?

 

Would it help if you had a picture of one that wasn't fried?

I still have mine. Really thought I would install it in my gen 4 but I've been happy enough with my integrated controller.

 

JR thank you responding. I did find a picture of one on southwest wheel website. If you go there that is what I have. If you like you can call me at 478 714 6081. My name is Mike I hope we can work something out

 

I didnt respond because you have an MH-53 in your avatar and I am an MH-47 kind of guy...just kidding, I do not have what you are looking for but always happy to see another Helo.

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This is the one I have.

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I've honestly not ever considered selling it, one of those things once its gone I likely won't ever get one back. But I have been happy enough with the factory brake controller I don't see going to anything else. I'd entertain sending it to a good home. If it's something your interested in I can give you a call.

 

Just chiming in. I have one and IMHO it does it's job. Just recently came back from a N-S and back run on I-77 thru NC, VA, WV and southern half of OH towing the Airstream. For the eastern US that's a good section of the best of the Appalachians. WV in particular gave it a workout.

The truck's brakes, trailer 4 piston disc brakes and the Maxbrake was a winning combo. That thing almost deserves reverse engineering to figure it out and someone make a service center for them.

And just cause I'm typing for total towing miles avg'd 11.5MPG for about 17K combined.

 

77 coming out of Charleston is where I blew an intercooler boot clamp on my 98. Duct tape wouldn't hold it on those grades and the load I had. I found a performance shop about a half hour away that had what I needed, for 50 bucks he delivered it to me.
I was thanking the stars I owned a smart phone that day

 

JR That's it!!!!!!!!!!!!!! How can we deal? Can or will you call me 478 714 6081

 

Since there are MaxBrake people looking at this mine caused my hydraulic actuator to come on without applying the brakes. Un plugged and did not make a difference so I hooked back the OE unit.

Any idea what is wrong and how to fix it? Someone mentioned needing to do a hard reset. I have no idea how to do that.

Ideas?

 

Mike yes I can call you today. I will try between 11 and 1130 ET time if that works for you.

 

Too early for me to have real ideas but maybe try to contact Dutch and Di ? they sold or supported these.

 

Yes JR that works for today

 

I am in the Eastern time zone so any time is good for me

 

Sad the MaxBrake went away, their controller was one of the best. I was sorry I let mine go when I sold the 2001.5 RAM. SnoKing

 

You should have gave it to me.

 

— How are you cresting those grades? Road speed or engine load as limit?

— Running the Corkscrew Roller Coaster (WV TPKE) a decent test of any rig.

— What’s the tow rig AVG MPG otherwise? Level terrain overall. (And typical cruise control set speed)?

— What tires? Stock size?

— You correcting Steer Axle FALR 90%-plus?

I haven’t been that far east with TT, but have run that route pretty regular otherwise the past six years.

As to brake controllers, the TUSON unit became the only one worth having many years back once factory support for MB disappeared. Ten years?

Might as well argue a JORDAN worth having. Hell, why not the KELSEY-HAYES we used (as a model) for more than 35-years.

Just keep a cheap Prodigy as spare.

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Slowmover,

Cresting grades, engine load, no lugging. Not the posted limit. I'm not in a race hooked up.
I-77 NB from NC to Fancy Gap VA is the big grade slow truck lane NB and truck run offs SB. I run 5th and pick up a few degrees engine temp crest it back into 6th and the temps come right back down.
WV Tpke, add some construction around Beckley and that just adds some more "fun" to it.
Towing mileage. 1238 miles all towing 107.7 gal 11.49 MPG hand calculated. No cruise while towing.
We made an empty run of 304 miles 16.109 gal 18.87 MPG hand calculated, cruise at posted when possible.
Truck is stock size LT265/70R17 Continental Terrain Contact HT
AS just got new Michelin Agilis 16"
I have yet to make a 3 pass over a scale, someday possibly. A nicely tuned Equal-I-Zer keeps us connected.

I just heard about the Jordan recently an interesting old make it happen controller but never seen one.

Here's a truckers video of I-77 to Fancy Gap. The video starts to show the grade around the 3 min mark at VA MM 1.

Gary

 

Thanks, your rig close enough to mine that it’s a decent comp. And I figured you drove in a manner similar (you do).

Hadn’t considered that tire. As it’s time for third tire set at 250k I’m reading around again. Am using BRIDGESTONE Duravis 500 as default.

Equalizer-brand truly not worth it, you know. Can-Am and some other A/S dealers won’t sell much less install them. (A/S not traditional full-frame, etc., is that problem: stiff pickup springs + EQ + A/S A-frame attach).

Three-Pass Scale Method worth the few minutes with phone app; axle slide also a good way to look at trailer tire loads; get scalemaster help.

Only “real” problem with Fancy Gap grade is fog. Almost all cars run the grade too fast under any conditions, but the REALLY dumb truckers do as well. Fog makes it more “interesting”, therefore. Plus, truck stops at either end are ALWAYS a pain to use besides constant traffic.

F-G is a grade where I plan anything N from Charlotte to make my stop nearer Fort Chiswell, VA in that 130-miles or so. No stops, and best time of day. Straight-thru.

That entire route is full of big trucks. If you don’t have a quality CB (permanent roof mount antenna) that set of junctions from those Interstates can have real problems. I took an extended (and very easy detour) around a construction delay over an hour in length a few months back below F-G. Gained 30-45” on those who sat.

No more is it a good idea in this country to be a sitting duck in traffic with no way out. With warning more than 20-miles out it wasn’t hard with Commercial Atlas, GPS and local drivers to figure the best diversion route. You could have had one shorter than the one I settled on.

WAZE or Google Maps tell me which way the stupids will try to divert. They’ll make it worse. No thanks. And the day their Jesus-phones don’t work, one wants the CB plus the experience of how to use it.

1979 “experience” doesn’t count. Recent, and ongoing, does. And a bad radio is no help. Who’s got time for hand-holding with what’s on the line? Best radio rig = best response rate. Pretty much that whole route will be un-ending small disasters.

The road dips you avoid today (with that hitch brand) you won’t so easily be able to get around once on side roads when the Interstate becomes a series of parking lots. Disconnecting it just means you’ve equally compromised braking, etc.

TUSON the brake controller brand to have today. See reviews on Mr Truck. As well, their electronic trailer-mount anti-sway.

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Well the unit came from a very true gentleman. JR and I agreed to send without him receiving the $$$ or I getting the the unit first. I did a complete continunity check of my truck and all worked well. Connected unit calibrated and works like it should. I want everyone to know that JR came through for another TDR member. Thank You JR