Just installed a PacBrake kit on my '03 5.9L HO NV5600

After experiencing going down a steep grade on US 276 from the Blue Ridge Parkway to Waynesville NC with the trailer, I decided I needed an exhaust brake. After researching the available options I went with the PacBrake 44030 kit.

First task was jacking the front end up and pulling the wheels (2WD) and the wheel well liners. This makes easy work of the installation. I got old jeans and tee shirts out of the rag box and covered the front hubs and calipers to help me stay clean.'

First off was installing the brake itself. It seems the clamp joining the elbow to the turbo is always installed with the thread/nut facing the block, but it came loose easily, though I had difficulty breaking the clamp loose. The v-band clamp on the down pipe also was stuck but came loose easier. New one in and clamps snugged and I kept wiggling the brake looking for the sweet spot where it would seat perfectly on the turbo and the down pipe.

Done with that I moved to the compressor install. I found the wiring harness that runs forward and across the front of the engine had to be removed from the clamp so I stopped and made a extension bracket from a 1 inch strip of 1/8 flat steel to move the clamp out about an inch.

Next was mounting the relays and PB says to put it between the fuse box and the windshield washer bottle on the side, and they show a pic of this, but the '03 is lacking room for it, so I ended up installing it just OB of the brake master cylinder. I used some aluminum angle to make a bracket to attach it to the cowl where there is a large flat protrusion with a hole in it. I included a toggle switch on the bracket with the relays to interrupt the pressure switch circuit to enable/disable the compressor.

Mounting the air tank was rather straight forward, behind the bumper on the LH side. I was going to install it on the transmission crossmember until I realized I had no way to drain it back there. I did add doubler plates to the bracket it is mounted on to stiffen it up some.

Finally I spent a lot of time under the dash running wire. I installed the toggle switch in the lower junk pocket in the middle of the dash on a homemade angle bracket, and took the wire over the steering column and out the grommet with the hood release cable, as it went thru rather easily.

I went to NAPA and bought 50 ft of 1/4 split wire loom material and virtually every bit of air tubing and wiring is encased in it, including the tubing running down the frame to the air coupling I mounted on the rear end of the running board bracket. The tube in the sleeving clipped neatly into unused positions in the fuel line clips on the frame. I also bought a Tee fitting and have run line from the left side thru a body channel to the right side for a second air coupling on the RH running board.

The 1/4 tubing that came with the kit was braided into a bundle, making it useless as there was no way to get the kinks out of it. Also it was not marked as SAE J844 tubing, so that went in the trash and I used some I already had. The instructions call for running the tubing from the compressor to the exhaust brake around the front of the engine, which I was not keen to do, so I shoved it thru the plastic firewall wire harness conduit and sleeved and clamped the exposed portions.

I forgot to add, I don't like tapping into wires so to get ignition power to operate the relays, I did what BD Diesel does with the Howler kit, and use male and female Delphi/APTIV Metra Pac 280 sealed connectors inserted between the wire harness connector and the fuel heater, with a tap to supply the 12v ignition power for the relays (probably less than an amp total draw)

One last comment, for those worried about the compressor being shaken to death on the engine, install a Fluidampr in the place of the original crank damper, the engine does run smoother and quieter with it and no worries about it failing like the original.

I've said too much already, so I'll let the pics tell the story.

Charles

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Looks OEM, Nice work.

 

I have had one for years. You will be very happy. I use mine all the time loaded or not. You will find that it will literally slow you down going down hill in places that you will up cycling it just to maintain speed. Enjoy

 

GREAT writeup! I'm very interested in doing the same for my '03. Where you mounted the compressor is where I already have a Glacier secondary filter setup mounted, so is there another feasible location for the compressor?

Steve

 

Anythings possible. Of course, this kit is engineered to fit '03 to early '07 models so they picked the head of the engine because no matter the options on the vehicle or the year, this area would be a suitable mounting point.

I'm not fond of mounting the compressor on the frame or down under the truck due to exposure to dirt, water, road damage, and distance you have to run the wiring (heavy, 10 gauge) to power the compressor.

I too would like to get the pump off the head, and did some looking, and found only one location that is doable. You have to understand, this all requires fabrication of brackets, procuring shockmounts, etc.

I think the compressor, with the control valve unbolted from the end of it would fit in the RH aft corner of the engine compartment. A steel plate could be fabricated from heavy, probably 3/16 steel, and mounted on 4 shockmounts in the area in the attached pic. the control valve could be mounted on the firewall portion of the same bracket, which is mounted to the structure on the side and on the firewall, and to which the air conditioner receiver is mounted. The battery being right there provide a place to attach the power and ground leads and you have a very short run from the control valve to the actuator on the brake. The relays could be mounted on the right, similar to what I did on the left side, and suddenly the the left side becomes uncluttered.

First pic shows potential area to mount a plate, and the second pic shows the control valve that would need to be separated from the compressor to fit the pump in place.

Access for working would be through the RH wheel well with the wheel and liner remove, which you need to do to install the brake valve anyhow.

Charles

 

Thought I'd add a couple of more pics.

I cannot stress how important it is to not drive the wheel well liner screws with a power screwdriver. Do it by hand. Feel for the screws to start into the existing threads, and the screws will tighten up just fine. If you force them and cut new threads, they will strip out and then you got a mess on your hands. When removing the wheel well liner, first thing is to push out the "christmas tree" retainers that secure the antilock sensor cable and the engine accelerator cable. Yes, I was shocked when I discovered there was a cable from the pedal to a position sensor under the fuse box, and they secured it to the wheel well liner. Put the butt end of a hammer handle against it and push it out first, and on the antilock sensor wires you will need to back up the plastic with your hand to push it out. I took the pic when I was removing the shroud for the second time chasing air leaks at the air tank.

Mounting the external air coupling is personal preference. I can imagine all kinds of places people might want the couplings. I decided that the back end of the Dee Zee running boards would be good as I would have about equal access to either the front or rear wheel. I ran the line down the inboard side of the LH frame with the fuel lines and discovered that there was an unused clip located in each of the line clips on the frame. It was perfect size for the wire loom material I sleeved the tubing in.

Then I decided I wanted air on both sides of the truck, so I ordered a Tee fitting and pieces to make a air coupling mounting (there are a multitude of different ways to do that) and fabricated a angle bracket from some angle iron for the right side. After laying under the truck awhile I concluded that it would be easy to run the tubing thru a body channel from one side to the other. After sleeving the tube, I tried to shove it thru from the left, it would not go and kept hitting something and came out all dusty with dirt on the end. I went to the right side and the tube went thru easily. I used a mirror and spotted a mud dauber nest that I had knocked loose, and was able to retrieve it from inside the box channel. Yes, I blew out the line before I hooked it up.

The Battery trays have bosses on the back end of them, with a hole for a #6 screw, so I used a clamp and screw to retain the air tube to the actuator to prevent it from flapping around and wearing on the A/C tubes. If you don't have access to clamps, just get a package of wire ties from Home Depot that have mounting ears on them.

Charles

 

Last pics...............

Just have to say, I'm looking forward to those 8 to 10% grades out west in places such as US 14 or US 16 thru the Bighorn National Forest in Wyoming on the way to Cody WY and Yellowstone's east entrance.

Charles

 

Thanks Charles. As (un)luck would have it, I've got the compressor for my air-adjustable Rancho shocks mounted down there by the right hand battery already! Since you've got the hands-on experience with all this, thought I'd ask you if you've seen a third-best location for the compressor. I too would like it to be as protected as possible, but maybe I'll have to settle for a less-protected spot?

THANKS in advance for the help.

Steve

 

If you have a compressor (capable of supplying at least 100 psi and preferably more) already, you don't need another one. I assume the one you have supplies a tank and then the valving for the shocks. You simply take air off the tank and route it to the control valve and the brake. PacBrake makes a kit for '03-early '04 manual transmission for vehicles with existing onboard air, kit # C44031. Of course the switch inside has to be installed, wire run from there to the computer, and a wire run from the computer to the relay, plus an ignition power source.

https://pacbrake.com/wp-content/uploads/PRXB-ApplicationGuide-PAC.pdf

Instructions for kit C44031 https://pacbrake.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/L5892.pdf

Note that you need to have stock exhaust, at least the down pipe needs to be the original '03-'04 size/style pipe for this to work, since the brake valve replaces the elbow on the back of the turbo.

You DO NOT need the optional clutch switch nor the optional accelerator switch (to "speed up" actuation). I called and talked to tech support and he told me to try it without these as is should work just fine, and it does.

This is a pic of that kit. See that rolled up air tubing? throw it away and buy 50 ft of SAE J844 ¼inch nylon air brake tubing from Amazon or your local auto parts place. That roll is not marked as J844 (at least mine was not) and it will be so kinked up you will never get it straight. I already had enough tubing left from a replacement of air suspension bags on a motor home I had, so I used that.

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If you do not have an air tank, and I cannot find any listings for Rancho Air Shocks so I cannot tell what the kit might include, you can buy a tank on Amazon or elsewhere (half gallon will do) and install it. You would probably end up ordering additional push lock fittings to tap into your system, and Amazon has tons of that stuff including 1/8 to 1/4 mixed size fittings if by chance your existing air system uses some 1/8 tubing.

Charles

 

Thanks again Charles! The compressor for the air shocks is a very small (cheap) one, and there's no tank involved with the system. That said then, I suppose I could mount the PB compressor where that small one is now and mount the PB tank where you did and tie the air shocks into that tank. Also, if you would, please explain your rationale for the compressor control switch you installed.

Greatly appreciate your input on this topic so far. I'm definitely going to follow the path you've set on this, as installing a brake is about the last mod I need to do to my truck (which I've owned since new). I too tow heavy, and so far have gotten by without a brake, but I don't want to push my luck any further.

Steve

 

The compressor enable/disable switch is shown in the wiring diagram. It merely keeps the pressure switch circuit open and thru prevents the air compressor from operating. In normal around town driving (and I do very little of that) I see little use in the exhaust brake. I've tried it, yes it helps, minimally so. The air system at times leaks down rather quickly. I am suspect that the check valve on the outlet of the pump may not seat properly and it leaks back into the pump. This is because, at times, I can turn on the ignition switch and the pump runs and pumps up, and fifteen minutes later, I again turn on the key and it runs again. However on a couple of occasions, the system has gone a couple of days sitting before the pump will run when switching the key on. This tells me I have located all of the leaks at fittings (just about every one of them plus the brass petcock I added to the bottom of the tank) but I have fixed all of them.

With all of that being said, there is no sense running the compressor when it is not needed, and it helps to have an EASY way to turn it off should a line get damaged or disconnected and cause an air leak. Pulling the pump fuse is a PITA, its difficult to get out of the fuse holder (its a 30 amp MINI fuse and I didn't know they made inline holders for the mini blade fuses. I actually made the bracket without provisions for the switch, and a few days later, someone on the BigfootRV forum (I have a Bigfoot trailer) said they had a air tank rust thru on the motor home air bag system, as it was installed with no way to drain it. They were complaining that they they had to search long and hard for the fuse, to keep the compressor from running, so yes, there are reasons for keeping it turned off. That prompted me to re-make the bracket.

My truck is the tradesman model, and as such has no power options (yes, manual windows, manual door locks, and (sigh!) manual mirrors. It does not even have adjustable pedals (I intend to start searching some of the larger junkyards for the parts). Its a bare bones truck. I did add the driving lights, the Mopar accessory bug deflector on the hood (quite rare now, one shows up on ebay only two or three times a year), and a deluxe center seat with the storage compartments (in the proper color). All of that being said, I have the lowly 136 amp alternator. Sounds like a lot, but if you look at what is being powered when the truck is running, fuel pumps, A/C clutch, blower, electronics for the engine, lights, etc, its another good reason to not run the compressor when I don't need it. Eventually I will add a Mechman 240 amp alternator, but being retired, I have other places to spend the money right now.

I have just about figured out what I need to do to move the compressor and relays to the right side and in the next year will look at doing that. It will be a steel plate shaped somewhat like what I showed in the pic above, and will have four shockmounts to support it on the bracket. The plumbing and wiring changes will be easy.

I use Raychem enviromental butt splices that have a loose heat shrink sleeve with sealant, and are crimped with special crimpers. Its considered by the large aircraft manufacturers to be a permanent repair. I use cheap butt splices on some things but use the Raychem splices on the critical stuff I don't want to have problems with.

Charles

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Thanks Charles. This is all great info for me to keep for when I move ahead with this project on my truck.

Steve

 

For those that want to move the compressor off the location on the cylinder head- be aware that most other locations allow the noise of the compressor running to transmit into the cab more. When I bought my truck, the PO had the EB compressor mounted below on a bracket below the right headlight assy. and it was very noticeable when driving. I moved the compressor to the cylinder head location shown above and I now can't hear the compressor if the engine is running.

 

I had my compressor on a mount that vibrated badly to the cab, so I moved it and found the best place for NVH was the frame rail, (pass side outer) Viair makes a univ mount that can be bolted anywhere (clamped like fuel systems on our frames) and is pretty much un noticeable from the cabin. Add that and a small ping tank and you have OBA for any toys, I had inflation ports on bed and engine bay, PacBrake, remote air fill for airbags, etc... FWIW, I have had friends who've had trouble with the engine mount bracket cracking that PacBrake supplies, so just thought Id mention that.

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Put a piece of neoprene rubber between that and frame rail, don't think you'd hear it at all! Similar of what I did on remote o/f mount on frame under passengers seat. Thinking of doing some sort of OBA and tank for a variety of things. Could see were if it was mounted at fender well, it would resonate up firewall! Can say that towing with the 1500 and now the 3500 w/ EB, what a difference!

 

PacBrake makes a similar mount for their compressors (two, one for the two smaller pumps and one for the larger pumps)

https://pacbrake.com/product/hp10204-amp-universal-mounting-bracket-for-hp325-series-compressors/

The mounting on the engine is so solid that I can barely hear the compressor running when the truck is in the shop with the hood open and the engine off, when I switch the key on.

I'm having trouble imagining that thick bracket breaking (its about 3/16 inch) but I will keep and eye on it and check the bolt torque every so often. I mentioned before, the Fluidampr does wonders for smoothing and quieting the engine, possibly it will help with the life of the compressor/bracket.

I am now convinced the air leakage is thru the pump check valve back into the pump, as it does not always leak down rapidly sometime taking a day or two, sometimes a few minutes. There are no other leaks.

Charles

 

As a retired Pacbrake distributor who has sold many of these units to TDR members I enjoyed your comments.

I would only like to add..... after a couple of hundred of miles, and the truck is settling in a cooled down position... go back and tighten the Clamps that connect the exhaust brake housing to the turbo, and the exhaust pipe connection to the Brake Housing.

For best operation, any leaks on these two claims will result in some lack of performance. On units we installed, we always asked the customer to return for an inspection and in almost every case we were able to tighten each clamp up. Once Checked we found this good for the life of the system.... thanks for choosing Pacbrake and thank you to all of you who supported me through the years...

Jim

 

Great detail, thanks. (Saved).

But, you (anyone) don’t need the exhaust brake so much as needing to slow more.

A combined rig is at its most vulnerable on a downslope. Hit by hard wind natural or man-made the only way to regain control is to go WOT with the trailer brake slammed hard as it’ll go.

Means you (anyone) needs both room to accelerate and from a low enough speed to not make that part any worse.

Same with ice/snow or heavy rain. The downslope is where the party gets started! The trailer is traveling faster than the tow vehicle and it doesn’t take much to encourage it to break out of line-dance formation. Road speed is what matters, wind, traffic or slick surface.

Travel in winter . . . the wrecks are almost exclusively on the downslope. From the big rigs and on down in size. It’s the operator, not the rig.

An EB is where the service brakes can’t reasonably do the job. That’s not the problem you have with the little trailer in the avatar. The trailer brakes slow the trailer. Will the EB automatically engage the trailer brakes? No? Then the EB isn’t doing much . . may make the problem worse without TT brake engagement.

Trailer Brake Wiring Upgrade
https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/23470880/print/true.cfm

Trailer disc brakes are what will change your life.

Until then a TUSON Brake Controller is a worthy addition to the needed trailer brake wire upgrade over Prodigy or other aftermarket controllers.

1). Set WD hitch so that Steer Axle is same weight solo or hitched same day on a Cat Scale.

2). The combined rig should stop sooner from 30-MPH than the solo truck (test).

3). With an observer, adjust individual brakes after gravel road test such that brakes lock at about the same time.

4). At 50-MPH perform the sway recovery test of WOT with simultaneous hardest engagement of trailer brakes to get a feel for it. And distance needed.

— Place brake controller where that plus steering wheel and the need to shift the transmission can all be done more-or-less together.

HELWIG 7658
ADDCO 2312
Anti-roll bars are a distinct upgrade and will improve handling/braking. SuspensionMaxx front links. And KONI shock absorbers.

Tire pressure to Cat Scale minimums and a 5-psi bump. Too much tire pressure a mistake.

I need next to no tire pressure increase from solo with dialed-in WDH on an heavier pickup with a significantly larger TT than yours.

EB is nice to have, but it’s not the answer to downgrade control. You’ll increase the sense of control (and it’s actuality) with the above plus a slower downgrade speed to maintain.

Trailer drum brakes have almost no reserve.
Don’t use it up. An EB won’t control the rig when the trailer gets squirrelly.

Thanks again for the detailed write-up. An EB is what’s wanted for the trailers in excess of 10k and truck service brakes are getting strained. A nice performance envelope enhancement.

Riding the the EB downslope is what to watch any big rigs doing . . and get the hell away from them.

.

 

Awesome writeup, skill and attention to detail. My question is, with that much ability/knowledge, what took you so long?

In my opinion, if you haul heavy, in mountain county and often, the exhaust brake is more important than "any" upgrade to your tow vehicle. Especially if your tow vehicle is Cummins equipped. Cummins engine/exhaust retarding has been better than any other engine manufacturer for ages. Not sure about some of the new offerings.

That was my first upgrade to my Cummins conversion in my Ford in 1990. Pickup sized exhaust brakes weren't offered, so I used a 5" Pac brake on my 3" exhaust. I was so impressed, that the brake became my first upgrade to each new/used truck I acquired. Don't leave home without it....

 

Nick,
Is that the Salt River Canyon highway? Video doesn’t do justice to its steepness. I agree that an exhaust brake is highly recommended for mountain driving. It’s one of the best upgrades I did to mine.
Bud