SHOP TIPS -- thanks to KBennett

I will start out with some things that may be known but can really help those that don't:
1. When drilling, run the drill faster with smaller bits and slower with larger bits.
2. To help a larger bit get a better bite, pre-drill the hole with a smaller bit first.

 

Buy a copy of Machinery's Handbook.



-Ryan

 

KBennett- don't forget cutting oil when drilling. The bits cut better, run cooler, and stay sharp longer.



When loosening tough bolts, PB Blaster is your friend. Particularly if it isn't a place you either can't, or don't want to use a torch.

 

When you are getting ready to pant, put a plastic bag over the paint tray pour the paint into the tray and paint away... ... when you're finished pour the excess back into the can and throw out the bag, 1 tray will last a life time, and no clean up.



Scott

 

Check this out. I love it!

Ryan

 

Very good rbattelle. Thank you.

 

When using an EZ out, drill your hole all the way through the length of the bolt. Relieves tension maybe? You can also get penetrating oil to the threads better.

 

Great idea guys!!

I'll re-name the thread and make it a sticky.

 

Keep an eye out for those foil tins that frozen pies and other delicious desserts come in. Run them through the dishwasher and they make excellent disposable pans for mixing up chemicals, painting, body filler, whatever.



Ryan

 

1. For a super-fine chalk line,use braided fishing line on your chalk reel

2. To drive stubborn nails in hard wood,I like to use a wood handle hammer. I drill a hole in the handle and add toilet bowl wax to the hole. That way ,the wax is always with you. Dip the nail tip in,and you can amaze your friends when you are to only one on the job who can drive that nail

3. Dull the nail point to keep wood from splitting,or put the rough edge of the nail point 90 degrees to the wood grain

4. Grade your studs. I label mine with a 1,2,3 on the crown side. The straight ones are for the corners and doorways,The twos are close to the ones,and the threes are all together in the center of the wall. A smooth curve is much better than mixing straight and curved studs.

 

Calculate your drill speeds

Cutting speed(metal removal rate in surface feet/minute) X 4 divided by the Diameter of drill bit = Recommended RPM.

Metal removal rate varies for each alloy and worst case/ best case scenerio. Machinery handbook is the source for this info. GregH

 

Make yourself a shop towel holder using the roller from a typewriter!

In an unrelated thread, HOBrian asked to see pictures of my paper towel holder I just finished making. It's made from the roller of an old (1950s era) mechanical typewriter I recently dismantled for scrap.

On one hand, it's silly to spend a couple hours making a paper towel holder from a scrapped typewriter. On the other hand, it's a form of recycling! All I needed to add to make this work is the two 90° brackets at the ends. I used a piece of 1/8" steel I had laying around.


Ryan

 

The "RTV" in silicone RTV stands for "Room Temperature Vulcanizing".

So to keep the stuff from drying out, store it in the refrigerator.

Ryan

 

KBennett, I have always stressed drill a pilot hole first, (many people do not have time to do it right the first time, but have plenty of time to repair screw ups later, and it still adds up to a REPAIRED JOB) If using a magnetic stand drill, not drilling a pilot hole will often allow the drill bit to walk, thus on fit-up will have to drift a hole for bolt-up, and higher than 50 feet off the ground can be extremely annoying. An old saying, "More rush less speed" turns out very true.

 

For any broken studs, screw heads, rusted in bolts and screws that are difficult to grip, I use a Mig welder, (wouldn't start a job without one) place a piece of scrap steel in ground clamp, hit steel first with the arc, allow to contact part to be removed, (a little Dab will do you) wait a short time and screw out, works every time with me. When using a Mig you have instant heat without transferring it to parent part. Rapid expansion of threaded part, then contraction in parent part. Often one does more damage with a torch plus dangerous to surrounding area, and a darn slow way to heat intended part. One can do more harm and damage using an easy-out (believe no such thing) have made much folding money off numerous broken off easy-outs still imbedded in offending part.

 

would have never thought of using a mig welder to heat up old broken bolts or studs to help remove them :-laf :-laf :-laf :-laf



thhans djw for that piece of useful information

 

Honestly I wouldn't even consider trying to repair or disassemble anything without a Mig at hand, can be used with no damage to adjacent parts. The reason is instant heat applied at molten steel temperature. If trying to save to use again a badly rusted part unless concerned if heat treated, or high carbon content, and if the usual heating with a torch fails. Get a bucket or such filled with cold clean water, heat the part with a torch until the two members are red hot equally , plunge the part into the cold water. Then heat the outer part only, have to judge that, then unscrew. What happens on the first quench the outer portion will shrink to the inner faster than the inner cools, thus compressing the inner portion, on the second heat avoiding taking too long thus expanding both. Have used that when all else fails.
Not forgetting work hardened brass or copper washers pipe etc. heat to red plunge into cold clean water and will be pliable again.

 

Ooops, careful with the pipe, or any pipe heated then placed in water, that steam or vapor is hot, also the heat of the pipe travels fast. (way too fast)

 

Use of welder as a tool again, if needing to use a used pipe coupling, with a broken piece of pipe still in it, just deposit say 1/2 of weld inside of broken part, let cool and remove with pliers etc. For blind hole outer bearing races, (when removing bearing if outer portion remains in parent material) same deposit 1/2 inch of weld inside of surface, it will drop out on cooling. To remove a broken part where magnet or gravity won't work, easiest with stick rod, grip rod with fingers close to holder, weld rod to part to be removed, just enough, hold rod to welded part and remove holder, often one can remove a broken part that way. (delivery trucks, where gear shift breaks)

 

For pilot holes, keep plenty of new 1/8" bits, I like the gold colored Bosch, and toss 'em when they don't cut first thing. I used to be shy of drilling steel, no more. Use the same bit to run a hole thru a piece of steel before cutting out hole with a torch, you'll save no end of oxy and acy.

I keep a tube of Wet Ones in the shop for hand cleaners, the stuff will cut grease pretty well, clean up 3M 5200 glue, even cut polyester resin, it's some sort of alcohol based cleaner. Great for cleaning out a cut, too. I ought to buy stock in that company. I keep 'em in the truck to wipe my hands after handling money when traveling, cut way down on my winter colds. Good on the boat for cleaning off fish slime and jellyfish mess.