Heater Core Tube

Hey All,
I’ve got my exhaust manifold and turbo out and am going to replace the heater core tubing from the water pump area (behind the alternator) to the heater core as they are looking a bit rusty and this seem like the time to do it. There will be a PAC-brake in the way when it is back together, making future replacement probably that much harder.

Question: Where’s the best place to buy the replacement tubing. I can get the silicone hose from Geno’s and I found the “L” pipe that runs under the manifold. The picture attached is the last piece of the puzzle and would like to avoid going to the dealership. Best price so far is $116 (Tuscan MOPAR). Can anyone do better? Truck is as listed in the signature.

Thanks, Scott.

 

I'd jump on that OEM part, even Dorman runs $50 more than that.

 

Thank Grant! I was looking at Dorman and could not find the part. That’s where I got the “L” shape tube.
Scott.

 

Replaced all that with this when I replaced my turbo and exhaust manifold:

(1) FSD 2003-2007 Dodge Cummins Heater Hose Kit Black Braided – Full Send Diesel

Very clean and eliminated the small section of rubber hose that i was always worried would blow in the middle of nowhere. I could probably dig up some installation photos if you are interested.

 

Hey CVR,
Did this still route behind the turbo and under the exhaust manifold? Interesting option for sure.
Thanks,
Scott.

 

I would be interested in any pics you could post. I had that little piece of rubber replaced a while back but have had it leak (and had to tighten the clamps). That products looks really nice.

 

I found this picture on the Diesel Power Products website. Looks pretty interesting. What I cannot tell is does the hose directly above the manifold loop down behind the motor and come back up into the heater coil. My truck is a 6 speed so I do not have the feed through/into the heat exchanger on the transmission. For what I have into the L pipe, the back of the motor tube and the 2 silicone rubber pieces, I pretty easily exceed the $212 the kit is offered at.

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My truck is a manual as well.

We routed the long hose which runs from the lower block at the lower radiator hose under the exhaust manifold to the hose on the firewall. The long hose in the photo above is routed over the exhaust manifold and drops down at the back of the block and comes back up to the hose on the firewall. I do not believe we had enough hose to go over the exhaust manifold as shown in the photo.

The short hose with the elbow from the block to the other hose on the firewall is the same as shown in your photo.

I'm still looking for the installation photos my SIL took of the install. I'll post them if I find them.

 

CVR,
I’m thinking what is shown is an automatic and I’ll speculate it may run down and over to the heat exchanger and back to the heater core??? This would be a nice solution if I can get the return line hose that runs directly from the heater core to the back of the water pump. I chatted with someone at Pure Diesel Power yesterday and we could not agree on what FSD product would be the correct one for the lower heater core return line, which is the one I’m looking for.

I think I may contact FSD directly, which is probably what I should have done all along. Most of my parts ordered will likely be here by the weekend and if I can find a solution, I may simply eat the restocking/return fees and move forward with a FSD solution. I can then begin reinstallation of my new manifold, turbo and new pac brake. We’ll see...

Thanks,
Scott.

 

Hey CVR,
I just got this from Pure Diesel Power. Maybe this looks like what you installed???? I’m going to go ahead and order it. Thanks,
Scott

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Scott,

Yes that is how we routed the long hose. It did not come with any of the clamps to attach the hose to the block. We purchased those at the hardware store. No major issues so far but I am getting a little weeping where you attach the long hose to what I believe is the heater core rubber hose. It attaches with a single hose clamp. You might want to look to double up the clamps or figure out another solution to make sure that is a solid connection. At least it is accessible on the firewall!

Thanks, Mike

 

Thank you Mike! I will certainly incorporate your suggestions. Do you happen to remember if you did the replacement with the manifold and turbo in place or did you do it with these components out of the truck? I may go head and begin the reinstallation of my parts if it looks like I can to hose install afterwards.
Scott.

 

Scott, We were waiting for my Turbo to be upgraded so we did install before installing the exhaust manifold and turbo. Certainly much easier to attach to the block without the exhaust manifold and turbo in place. Routing the hose will not be the problem. Attaching the hose to the block will be the challenge with the exhaust manifold and turbo in place. We had the wheel off, the wheel well liner off, and the turbo and exhaust manifold off. Straight shot to the block. My truck is not my daily driver so can understand being down otherwise. Good luck on your install. Thanks, Mike

 

Thanks Mike,
Yes, fortunately mine is not my DD either so I can wait for the correct parts to arrive before doing much more on that side of the engine. I appreciate you bringing this solution to my attention.
Merry Christmas to you and yours!
Scott.

 

Last year I found Cummins to have much better prices than the dealership, including the on-line dealers, for this tube and the associated silicon tube mentioned above. They also had best price for the exhaust manifold gasket, manifold studs and bolts and the manifold bolt locking tabs.

I was able to replace this tube with the manifold still attached to the turbo but removed for gasket replacement. It was a true PITA to get the forward end of this tube in place. It was also a true PITA to get the tube disconnected from the oil cooler hose. The oil cooler hose has the imbedded hose clamp that I was unable to release. IIRC it took me using a diff plier for each of these imbedded hose clamps to include one with an offset jaw and cable.

I replaced my tube because the joints were rusted. Once I got my old one removed, I realized the tube was much thicker than I thought and could have lasted much longer. I am still glad I changed it while the manifold was backed off from the motor.

 

Here are the photos of the install. Looks like we had the exhaust manifold on but the turbo off:

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Thanks 075.9,
That is good to know.
Scott.

 

Hey Mike,
Question: It looks like you either got a new hose (90*) or modified the existing hose that comes out of the heater core. Did you guys just cut it in order to shorten it up toward the fire wall? The factory hose sticks out about 5-6” from the fire wall. Install going well, just waiting on the new hose and connectors.
Thanks Scott

 

Scott,

I didn't recall any modifications but checked with the SIL and he confirmed we did not modify the heater core hoses coming from the firewall. Both hoses coming from the firewall are original. Not sure if there are differences between models (Laramie, Bighorn, SLT). Mine is a Laramie with a dual zone.

Thanks, Mike

 

Thank Mike,
Copy that. Perhaps it is the angle of the picture.
Scott.