To do list for new (2003) truck

I just bought a 2003 CTD 2500 4x4 with 129,000 miles on it from the son of the original owner. It has new injectors and lift pump and a rebuilt auto transmission with a billet torque converter as well as new brakes. Also has EGT, transmission temp and boost gauge and an exhaust brake. He didn't know much else about the truck as far as when the last maintenance was done on it so I plan on resetting everything by doing them. Oil and filter, fuel filter, air filter, differential fluid, transfer case fluid, antifreeze/thermostat/hoses and serpentine belt. I've owned an 03 and a 04.5 previously so I'm not new to the truck but I have a few questions with regards to a few things.

Fuel filters: Have they come out with a drop in fuel filter that filters down to 2 microns or am I looking at adding something like the GDP kit? I've read Fleetguard FF5814 and Baldwin PF7977 both filter down below 5 micron but not sure if they'd suffice to ensure clean fuel doesn't eat up the injectors.

Whats the longevity on water pumps? Should I change when I do the antifreeze? Not sure if it's ever been changed.

The only thing that doesn't work in the truck is the temp probe, it's gives me a temp that's cold enough to store the Pfizer vaccine. Living in the mountains in Oregon it's nice to know when the temp is close to freezing for slick road conditions. Is there a probe under the hood somewhere I can check/replace?

With the transmission, when it shifts into overdrive it's a very firm shift when you are accelerating, is there anyway to tame this down a bit? I assume it's in the valve body setup.

Anything else you'd do with a truck like this if it was yours?

 

Congrats on the new truck.
The best drop in is still the pf7977, get better filtration asap.
my early of finally needed a water pump after 286K. i've also seen them go out at 78K on other trucks. choice is yours on that one.
temp probe is just left of driver headlight when you open the hood. i had to replace mine from a junk yard unit. all is fine now.
Trans is likely the converter. could be a triple disk. even though, the timing and how aggressive lockup occurs can be adjusted by someone that really knows the valve bodies.

if youre changing the belts, and water pump, get a tensioner pulley and an idler one.

 

Congrats on the new truck!

2µ is a misnomer, as that rating went away in 2004. Anyone advertising it is using old data.

For the OEM canister the PF7977 is the best option at 5µ.

For a spin on f/w separator I like the Baldwin BF1212 and for a final fuel filter the FF5814 has the nanonet media used on 4th gen's. It's specifically designed for HPCR's and, IMHO, the best filtration media available. It will fit any filter base with the 1-14" threads that are commonly used for the Cat 1R-0750 setups (which are 4µ not 2µ). I have heard good things about the DBF5814 but sold my 05 before they came out, it would be my 2nd choice filter with a P551313 as my 3rd, Cat 1R-0750 4th.

Waterpumps can go forever, and they can fail early. Personally I'd probably swap it out.

 

Thanks guys. Would the stock lift pump be able to maintain enough pressure to pump fuel through the additional f/w separator for a stock truck? On my previous 03 I had a FASS pump and filter but setups like the GDP don't have an additional pump so I'd imagine it would be fine with the stock lift pump.

On another not so shiny note, when I was crawling under the truck this evening I found the transmission had marked it's spot in the shop with a decent size puddle. Seems the leak is somewhere near the front, any tips on what I should be looking at? I drove it home 200 miles last night in a torrential downpour/whiteout conditions and had no transmission issues, shifted and drove fine. During a drive like that I know the transmission fluid was going to cover everything and I remember seeing about transmission lines chaffing which would make sense or if the leak was up high on the transmission and ran down. Any thoughts?

 

Is the lift pump in the tank or on the block?

 

It's on the block. Part of me likes it there in case I have to change it, while part of me would like it in the tank for the longevity

 

I pushed thru 3 filters for 130K miles without issue with the in-tank, and I don't beleive the current owner has had any issues.... but I don't think I would take that chance with the block mounted one.

Personally I would run a FASS with the dual 1-14" filter threads, route it thru the OEM filter, and add the optional fuel heaters. BF1212/FF5814 on the FASS and PF7977 in the OEM canister. 95GPH is plenty, and won't out flow your filters.

 

They fixed the defect with the canister fuel pumps. Just make sure it's the new design. I had the OEM filter and a GDP spin on final filter on my 2003. The PO had just replaced the canister pump with the updated version. So I ran it 54K without problems.

Most neglect the fan clutch till the AC repeatedly blows 1/2 it's charge out the relief valve. If it's over 5 years old you are not wasting money by replacing it. Yes, use a MOPAR clutch and $ouch$.

 

Leave the hoses alone, back then the rubber MUCH better then today, I'm on the OEM set and they are still in mint condition.

 

Shift 3>4 is more or less lock to lock, therefore rough.
The TC lockup solenoid is de-energized just for a split second.

 

Outside thermometer is probably the sensor disconnected, it's right at the bracket of the driver side headlight behind the grille.

 

Thanks guys, the temp probe was hanging by it's wires and one wire was broken so I'll repair that. The hoses look rough, I bought a set of hoses and may swap them out depending how they look after I deep clean the motor.

Tuesdak, when you say canister fuel pumps are you referring to the one in the fuel tank or the one mounted on the block? I hadn't thought about the fan clutch but I noticed the fan was engaged at times when I felt it should'nt be as it was in the 30's and raining and snowing like crazy, I'll add it to the list.

 

The fan will run with the defrost too, so it may or may not be normal.

 

Battery cable terminals, inspect both ends.

 

Look up "morning sickness" for fan clutches. Aka it's normal to run on startup. Age and being slow to lockup when commanded is the final slow death of our fan clutches. (If other failures don't get em first.)

The fuel pump on the fuel filter canister is what I ran as they fixed it's failure problem. Geno's has them, but, yours is new you said.

https://www.genosgarage.com/product/pump-fpd4089602/fuel-pumps

 

If you plan on keeping the truck for a long time and they salt where you live, then corrosion protection should be priority one! Around here one hardly sees a 3rd gen without rusted out rear wheel arches. One guy's rear bumper was so bad I don't know how it was staying on the truck. I think the chrome plating was holding what was left of it together. Even the guys that have tried commercial rust proofing still have had to repair rust damage. So if you are concerned about longevity, jump on any corrosion early and be relentless in your corrosion prevention measures.

 

Luckily where I live in Oregon the only damage suffered during winter is rock chips from the cinders they put on the road vice salt.

 

Congrats!
Can’t add much here except to go OEM for a water pump, and if you’re staying stock and not demanding extra fuel rate, the on canister lift pump will be fine pumping through extra filtration.
I am liking Fluid Film through an undercoating type gun with a wand. Get that stuff inside every nook and cranny possible- including the frame.
Long may she run!

 

I put the limits of South Bend's 1947-OKHD, 425 hp 900 torque, down with the canister pump and GDP final filter in place. I had to have the tune backed off for the clutch at higher RPM's...

 

It was 10 degrees here this morning but once it warms up a bit I'm going to install a GDP type fuel filter setup, nice to hear the canister pump can keep up. The truck is stock and I plan on keeping it that way so hopefully starvation won't be an issue.