synthetic oil

Is it worth the extra cash to use Rotella synthetic or Rotella blend ? been using the blend for 50k

 

Since you’re running a blend that sounds like 10w-30. All 10w-30’s are a blend at a minimum.

I prefer a full synthetic, but not all synthetics or blends are created equal.

 

5 -40 Mobil Delvac was always my oil. Now I’m doing 5-40 Amsoil. I think full synthetics are the way to go

 

My UOA results were very good for Rotella T6. When it became "unavailable" for whatever supply chain excuse I switched to AMSOIL DME Signature Series, that's dropped on my doorstep. Switching oils can affect UOA trends so I have stayed with the AMSOIL even though T6 is available on shelves again.

I have only reached the soot limit once, a surprise to me. I must be the poster child on why they required a 6 month oil change regardless of miles. Your engine is good for one year. When WARRANTY is over I may sample at 6 months and change every year. Than again I don't feel the need to gamble saving like $100 risking a $20,000 engine.

Worth it ... If the situation comes up where the synthetic provides protection where conventional or blends fail: Yes. One example is blow a radiator and the full synthetic can take the higher "overheat" heat over conventional.

So you roll the dice if the better oil could ever be worth it. I have wasted money on other things, but, by example I am running a full synthetic. The extreme heat, 121F, we experience is justification enough for ME.

Do you experience extreme cold? It's the other area synthetic has an advantage.

How long do you intend to keep the pickup?

 

Been running T6 Rotella since day 1. As Tuesdak said, no need to run non-synthetic since there is not much cost savings there, heck I used to run T4 in my 5.9 and changed it every 5k miles, less than $100 for a oil change is well worth not worrying about it. Now my mileage is lower than 10k / yr so I simply do an annual change and dont sweat it.

 

only got 60K keeping for a long time

 

Amsoil 5-40 Signature Series the only way to fly.

 

Bought Rotella T6 10W30 full synthetic first time with full synthetic thanks for the help

 

Can't go wrong with synthetics in a oder engine.
Often it is factory fill with these modern specs like a 0W-8 engine oil that for example Toyota is using now.

 

I use synthetic because it has a much higher resistance to high heat. With all the garbage they put on the engines now for smog, I use full as it cost the same as my 1997 or 2005 RAM with dino oil changes at 5K. I change mine now at 7500 with it at 50% on their "oil scale" per the odometer.

 

Rotella T6 5W-40 covers the full temperature operating range per DODGE, and even in hot-as-hell Texas the engine turns over more easily. Changed 17-years ago to this brand/spec as it’s available nationwide and has shown good UOA numbers for the engine as a class.

If I worked it harder I’d retain spec, but order SCHAEFFERS.

Almost all oil is so much better than 30-years ago it’s a source of amazement.

Whatever chosen, just follow factory guideline and forget about it.

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Considering how much soot there is from the EGR in our oil, I think that the lube oil could use all the help it can get and use what the owners manual recommends. I prefer the Rotella T6 5w-40 with a Fleetguard stratapore filter and I change and sample my own oil. At our power plants I work maintenance planning we have switched almost everything (gear and bearing boxes, oilers) over the synthetic, specifically Mobil and sometimes Shell and Schaeffer lubricants for higher temp equipment. On large reciprocating equipment like large Ingersol Rand air compressors, downtime went from near every other month when the plant was new to now 40 years later down time on those same compressors maybe every five years using synthetic. It's pretty remarkable stuff.

 

first change to synthetic with 60k on 2020 and have noticed a change from 203 oil temp down to177 in outside temps of 95 . Looks good so far with shell 10 30 .

 

There is no oil temp sensor, which means that you're looking at the oil temp gauge at a different stage of operation. The oil temp reading is an algorithm based on other inputs, which likely include coolant temp, load, and ambient temp but I have never seen a list of that it actually uses.