Coolant Filter Install

I finally got around to installing the coolant filter I bought at the end of last year. I tried to install it when I did my coolant flush in December, but I couldn’t find a plumbing/mounting option I was happy with, so the filter went back on the shelf.



I finally figured out where to mount it last month when I was installing my Home Depot CAI, the bracket fits perfectly on the bumper bracket behind the fog light, and there is plenty of room for hoses to run.



I had heard in passing that the block offered lower coolant pressure than the head, and that there was a coolant port behind the oil filter. Last week when I was getting my cam installed I confirmed this with Pat at Big Twin Diesel, and he said he had used the ports I was talking about in BB twin setups, and it would indeed flow.



So I had a mounting/plumbing plan that would work, so I waited until I did my oil change today and tackled the install. The first thing I did was drain the coolant. Once that was done I installed the fittings in the block/head.



I used the ½ NPT plug between 5 & 6 in the head, this is where the most pressure and heat exists. I am using 3/8” hose, so the fitting is a ½” MPT x 3/8” barb.



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The fitting in the block is the return, it’s a 18 x1. 5 o-ring metric fitting. I then put a 3/8” x 3/8 MPT barb into the o-ring fitting.



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I then mounted the filter to the truck, and figured out how to run the hoses. Once that was figured out I removed the filter head and got the fittings tight.



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Once that was done I got all the hoses routed. I zip tied and put anti-chaff on where appropriate.



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This is all you can see when the wheel well liner is installed.



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The filter itself is essentially level with the bottom of the bumper, and well above the valance piece.



I have found that the filter gets to about 100-110* (based on feel, and length of time I can hold it), before the thermostat opens, and about 140* after.



This filter should help increase water pump life, and overall cooling system efficiency. I am also expecting it to decrease the pressure in the head by 5 & 6 as well as decrease my coolant temp by a couple degrees when towing.

 

Wow! Looks great! I've been thinking about doing this same thing.

Where did you get the kit? Do you have a part number? Did the bracket come with it?

Thanks!!

--Eric

 

I built the whole setup. The bracket is a 257715S from Fleetguard/Cummins. The filter is a WF2077. I sourced the rest of the parts at the local Parker store, and a the 3/8" heater hose from NAPA.

 

What about the filter head? Does it come with the bracket?

 

I like the idea - and your set up.

How would it increase water pump life? Isn't the filter (in theory) making the pump work harder to push the coolant through the filter?

 

best thing is you can get the filters with the additive in them to prevent corosion in the water system. I like it!

 

Actually the factory fill isn't compatible with the coolant additives, I haven't found any that work with HOAT yet.

It keeps the coolant cleaner, thus reducing wear on the pump. The filter itself uses the pressure differential between the head and block for flow, so it doesn't add to the water pump work-load. In fact it may reduce it by reducing pressure in the head.

 

Great job! And also a great write-up! Just one question, does the filter head include the mounting bracket; or is that something you had to fab up yourself?

 

That part number is for both.

 

Very interesting! I'll add it to the list of things to do to the truck!!

 

If you want to buy just the head the p/n is 204163-s and make up you own bracket or you can buy the bracket separately under p/n 256535-s. It's more expensive this way. Shadrach

 

I picked up my filter kit here 1998. 5-2007 Dodge Cummins Coolant Filtration System and the Fleetguard WF2077 does fit it. I put mine in the same spot as you did. I am currently in the process of changing the fittings over to AN and swapping the two around. Not sure if it will effect the heater or not but, moving the heater supply hose to the rear would help with the flow at the back of the head. I have read that the filters with the additives are not needed for our application. The filters with the additives are used mostly on sleeved engines

 

I've often considered installing a Brass Strainer in one of the heater hose lines. These have a stainless steel mesh screen that is available in various mess sizes. Most can have a drain valve installed with a drain hose, so they can be periodically blown down to clean out any debris. No filters to change, they don't take up much space, and don't cost too much.

 

And if it were to plug you would loose your heater.

 

That is true! But, then I guess you would know to go blow it down!

You can also put a foot of clear plastic line on the bottom of it before the valve so you could see any debris that is accumulating.

 

Got my WF2077 installed today. With all due respect to AH64ID both of your ports that your hoses go into are pressure. The front one is greater than the rear otherwise you wouldn't have any flow and you filter wouldn't get hot. I did mine differently. I went into the first port in the head ( 3/8 NPT ) down to the filter and back up into the heater hose return, with a tee. I mounted my head and home made bracket on the frame because I want to remove my front bumper and go to a "Roo Bumper". Thanks for the idea of mounting it down there. I drilled holes ( just like I did for my Kilby filter to the left of it ) in the frame and tapped them for 3/8 NC and used GR8 bolts because of the weight of the 1/4" plate bracket and head assy. The taps are Cummins p/n 179901 and are meant for coolant filters on old Cummins engines. I had this set up on my old V8 Dodge. I used Goodyear 3/8 Hi Miler hose.



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The 2 5/8" blue hoses going off to the right are for my Espar.



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Shadrach

 

I realize they are both pressure, as the whole block is under pressure. . But yes the pressure differential is what allows for flow.



Now what I didn't realize until just now is that the coolant flows thru the block first. I have been told by multiple sources that it flows from the head into the block, then to the pump.



From what I have gathered the head has the greatest pressure, up to 60psi. . but I wonder now if thats not correct also.



I know I get flow, just wondering if I have the head plumbed backwords.

 

After thinking about it some, I think I will just re-plumb my setup. I want to ensure that 1) the flow goes thru the filter correctly 2) I am pulling coolant from the port between 5 & 6 because that's where the excess pressure and heat can manifest (But the more I think about it that's only under some circumstances, under normal I think its lower than the block).

I will replace the heater core molded hose with standard 5/8" hose and put a "T" inline for my filter return.

The part that sucks is now I have to drain the block to take the fitting out of the block... DOH!

 

A coolant filter is designed as a bypass filter only and doesn't get much flow. The simpliest way to replumb, if you so desire, is to switch the one from the rear of the head to the return heater hose, that way you are dealing with the top of the cooling system rather than lower down. Also be aware that the filter head does have an "in" and "out" stamped on it. Shadrach

 

I decided to do a little plumbing work last night. I moved the return to the heater core return. I don't think I was getting the full flow I could have with it plumbed the way I did. I originally hadn't wanted to run it thru the heater core return becuase the area is small and the fittings are large. . But it was actually quite easy and looks fine.

I used about 8" of 5/8" heater hose, a 1/2" NPT "T", 2 1/2"NPTx 5/8 Barb, and 1 1/2" NPT x 3/8 barb. All in all the swap took about an hour, including the coolant drain/fill.

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