BD Iron Horn Turbo Upgrade and PO 236 - 2005 Ram - Boost Fooler needed?

This is a update/revision to my recent previous thread.

I purchased a Smarty Touch Tuner and installed their prompted "Basic Tune" (they have not responded to my email inquiry about what this consists of versus more aggressive (?) custom tunes their instructions mention but their online links for more info don't work...) Guess I'll try to call them when time permits.

Truck runs better! However on short local small town 25-35 mph low boost trips and usually associated with road bumps - I still get the CEL PO 236 (MAP rationality...) Code, which the Smarty Touch easily clears but the code can come back even on the same drive. BUT I could drive 50 miles on the State HWY at 65 MPH to a bigger town, drive locally slowly a little, and drive back on the HWY WITHOUT this code!

- The "BD Iron Horn Turbo" included a plug-in device to "cover" the absence of a Wastegate with their Turbo.
- A new MAP was recently installed.
- Recently BD suggested a Tune would improve things but still could occasionally through a code - That was THEIR only advice.
Further online "PO 236" research suggests a BOOST FOOLER may be a solution - of which BD is one of several providers and THEY indicate may be a "necessity" with an improved Turbo...

So should I install a Boost Fooler (any recommendations?) or could their be a more "insidious" electrical problem?

Thanks so much for your advice!

 

I just re-read the manual because I was wondering about the term "basic tune" and did not find anything related to it.

I mean its pretty much straight forward, connect it to truck, switch on ignition, choose ECM on the screen, choose STD Revo, choose SW#3, choose program and wait for it to finish it's job.

Boost fooling is Standard on all programs except stock and half power.

 

Yup, the "Basic Tune" was not in the instructions...just showed up on the ECM screen... and it went through all the "turn off - turn on" steps.
Since none of the "links" for "details" in the instructions WORKED I emailed Smarty about that and have not heard back from them...
I'll follow your suggestions when I get a chance.

 

Still HAUNTED by PO 236!
Smarty Touch Screens don't match the 2015(!) online resource info or your suggestions...
Never did hear back from Smarty...
For "ECM" i'm presented "Basic" and "Advanced" options. Advanced takes one to "Catcher Power Levels". From there you can choose "default" Level 3 with timing.
I've downloaded this Level 3 program TWICE and I STILL get the CEL "PO 236" consistently on Subsequent startups after clearing the code using the Smarty. Strangely both times I downloaded - Smarty indicates my battery charge is low and to "proceed at my own risk" - this happened the second time after HWY driving for over 3 Hours on my less than a year old AGM Batteries....(did not bring my Battery Charger to Nebraska)
Time for me to take time to call SMARTY? Or just get a Boost Fooler?

 

Did you try this phone number or e-mail link?

Need Assistance ?
Call Toll Free: 1-888-857-0391
Outside Continental US: E-mail
[email]smartydieseltuner[/email][email]@gmail.com[/email]

I am not sure if this link still works but this is what I found on the internet.

 

Called MADS/SMARTY and they called back a few days later. They confirmed the SW3 Software does include a Boost Fooler - which may work 80% of the time but on about 20% of startups (often after short and sometimes bumpy trips) the CEL is on with Code 236 "Map Sensor too High too Long". They suggested maybe ECM or electrical or MAP sensor issue (the MAP was just replaced recently but is Chinese...). I guess the most economical/easiest solution could be a BOOST FOOLER which would presumable prevent any Sensor signals to trigger the code versus tracking down what else it could be....

 

I would change out that MAP sensor, I would only use approve Cummins replacement parts. Chinese parts are not known for their quality!

Geno's Garage sells one; 6.7L Dodge Cummins Diesel MAP Sensor 2897333 (genosgarage.com)

 

The 2005 Map Sensor from Geno's is $80 - slightly more expensive than most Boost Foolers - which is definitely easier to install.

Some old Online Threads indicate Smarty doesn't always Boost Fool... Smarty return call did not suggest any tweaks or "advanced tuning "methods" or address how many links on their website don't work...

But I still wonder if connectors or grounds could be an issue too....as the startup CEL PO 236 seems to follow short & bumpy drives - DESPITE the Smarty "Boost Fooler" seemingly working most of the time...

The easiest/cheapest approach for now may be the Boost Fooler when I get home...next month

 

Another step in this saga!
Drove over 1300 miles from Imperial NE to Montgomery AL (home) with 2 Hotel Stays, one side trip to "Fantastic Caverns" in MO, no CEL PO 236 Codes. Was NOT towing the Fifth Wheel as we left it in NE pending our return next Spring.
But short drives around town at home set it off... also a code for slow fan speed... Codes only appear on startups - never while driving. At least the Smarty clears them even though it apparently doesn't always prevent them....
Installed the BD Boost Fooler today Nov 5 - easy to do. Not sure when I'll drive the truck again - maybe later next week for an Oil Change (Maxwell AFB Auto Hobby Shop is closed permanently now so I'm not changing the Oil myself anymore - darn!). Meanwhile NOCO Genesis dual Charger is tuning up the new this year AGM Batteries (which the Smarty always said were low)...
Another puzzle to me is why when I contacted BD early this year about my new BD Iron Horn Turbo and Code issues they never suggested their Boost Fooler (which are advertised as must haves for towing or Tunes) - just suggested a Tune.
Will really test it next year when we return to NE I suppose.

 

Well, despite installing the BD Boost Fooler and re-installing/uploading the Smarty Touch Catcher SW 3 with upping to 2 on Line Pressure and 2 on Timing (AGMs Fully Charged so no "Low Battery warning like this summer in NE), I now seem to get the CEL PO 236 "MAP Sensor Too High Too Long" on every startup as I check for any Smarty DTCs - which does clear the CEL until the next startup - like from any destination or even just stopping to fuel up. Of course these are mostly local drives with little HWY driving.
Is my only best course of action now is to install a newer MAP?
In the meantime I've parked my RAM (now just over 180K miles) in the Base Storage Lot and disconnected the Batteries pending our return from the Rio Grande Valley as "Winter Texans" next Spring to head back to NE and reunite with our Fifth Wheel and return to work.

 

I would try and contact SAG2 with a PM who is a member on this site. He is very knowledgeable on the Cummins 6.7L engine. I believe he worked for the manufacture who train dealer personnel.
Like I stated earlier, and I could be wrong but usually certain OEM parts are the best for these engines.

 

The P0236 at startup means the boost fooler wasn't needed, as does the low boost tripping of that code. I'd take it off.

Clean the connection on the MAP sensor. The FSM has you replace the MAP sensor for every condition that sets that code.

Do you have a scan tool or somthing you can monitor the psia from the MAP sensor? If not a ultra gauge is a cheap option, as are some of the bluetooth OBDII reads that connect to your phone.

While the FSM doesn't indicate it, I think it's possible that the AAT sensor could be reading low making the truck think it has more boost than it does. You can check this by comparing the psia on the AAT and MAP with the igintion on and the engine off, they should be the same.

 

My 2005 Ram has a 5.9L Cummins.
Thanks for the suggestions!
I pursue them when I have time. Sure is a puzzle!

 

There isn’t any reason they would fight each other. The smarty doesn’t boost fool, it just removes the fuel restrictions at higher boost. If you run both, which is redundant, the ECM
never gets to the part of the fuel map where the smarty modified it because it doesn’t ever see that much boost.

 

Thanks for the advice!
We'll see how hard it is too start the Truck in April and go from there!

 

Just to be safe I used a new RV Battery and our Nissan Rogue with booster cables to start my truck in storage and fired right up! Great.
After bringing home and parking it put in on the NOCO dual charger and after one week the Passenger side one year old AGM battery died... Got a free Warranty replacement from Advance Auto Parts (bought them there last year).
Had the 236 code, Made it to St Louis - once again the code on startup, but made it all the way with HWY miles to little Imperial NE without the Code. But now that we only drive the Truck once or twice a week at slow speed for VERY short drives the Code is frequent.
Plan to get a new Cummins MAP & AAT installed soon and see what that does...

 

Well the PO 236 Code is a little less occurring than before but still frequent.
Today, Saturday June 3 on our first planned 60 mile drive to the nearest Wal-Mart after over a month in the small town, slowing down for a HWY Stop sign after 25 miles of nice 65 MPH driving generated the CEL and poor performance so I pulled off and let the SMARTY JR diagnose and now PO 340 Camshaft Position Sensor code ALSO appeared. Clearing it only postponed that CEL for a few miles at a time and rough running so we cut short our journey and left our truck at a Diesel Shop 30 miles from "Home". A coworker came and picked us up....
Guess we'll have to get by with just the two small groceries in town for a while more while that gets sorted out - Hopefully!
Its the same Diesel Shop scheduled me for June 15 installation of the new MAP and IAT...

 

WELL...
Wife drove Truck home from Shop in Grant NE 27 miles "home" to Imperial NE, and drove to the Laundry yesterday. Today Saturday June 24 2 short trips in town (4 Startups) and traveled once again north and maybe a mile before the Diesel Shop in Grant, CEL came on again with the PO340 Code. Pulled in the Shop (closed on Saturday) and Smarty Jr cleared the Code. But that lasted maybe 1000' before CEL came back on with a Rattle so coaxed it back to the Shop and left the keys.
Coworker picked us up. At least no "Too High Boost Codes" on startup over these 2 days (New Cummins MAP and Chrysler (?) IAT)....

 

You didn't let them change the CPS the first time even the Code popped up?

You are lucky that you were able to start it up again as for the start it needs both - CKP and CPS, means it is an intermittent fault. Once running it can do it with just one, fail safe - that's when the code pops up.

Both are the same and interchangeable, I always carry one in my boonie box.