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  1. CDenton

    Hi

    Has anyone tried using the flex-a-lite electric fan or any other type of electric fan? Reading the information online it says it will gain like 27 HP and I was just wondering if anyone could tell me anything about them (ie if they are good or not, any place to buy or how hard to install?). Any information appreciated.

    Thanks!
     
    CDenton , Jun 24, 2010
    #1
  2. WestTN

    They like to quote those wild numbers to snare sales. Let's assume the stock fan is capable of moving that much air. To equal it's performance you would need electric fans capable of moving enough air to consume some 20,000 watts to equal that. And that means the alternator has to supply about 1600 amps at 12. 5 volts.



    I had an experence with dual electric fans on my first truck. The engine temp was difficult to keep steady, and overpressure on the air conditioner componets caused failure of several expensive components. That overpressure was directly related to inadequate cooling from the 2 electric fans even though they were both running flat out . After romoving them and re-installing stock parts I had a good operating system again.
     
    WestTN , Jun 24, 2010
    #2
  3. Bob Cochran

    I have not used electric fans on these engines mostly because they do not pull the CFM of the OEM fan. You have to remember diesel engines are basically heat generators and need a lot of air to cool the water adequately. It has been discussed many times on here and a search will result in hours of reading on the subject.
     
    Bob Cochran , Jun 24, 2010
    #3
  4. JMetzger

    There is a big write up on the install of a Flex-A -Lite electric fan on a Ford in the Sept Diesel World Magazine. They make it sound like it is better then Mom's Apple Pie & Homemade Bread.
     
    JMetzger , Jun 25, 2010
    #4
  5. MStearns

    Electric fans are fine for cruising, but if you work your truck they just won't keep it cool. I switched to an electromagnetic fan clutch from Horton but it is pricey. Still a belt driven fan but electrically controlled, not viscous. So it is either 100% off or 100% engaged. Believe me when it engages you know it!



    But even running 60 or 70 down the highway, there just isn't enough air flowing through the engine compartment to cool an engine that is working hard.
     
    MStearns , Jun 25, 2010
    #5
  6. SDrake TDR MEMBER

    Source for electromagnetic clutch



    Where do you find the Horton clutch and know it is the right application for ouor trucks, in my case a 94. My airconditioner works great whenever the fan is pulling air but often as not at traffic situations the clutch is not engaged and the air onditioner starts blowing hot air. I really noticed this one day when it was around 100 degrees and the i could hear the fan roar and my airconditioner was working well when in cooler temps with the fan not pulling air it won't cool. Traffic jams are a dread.



    I remember shopping once for the electromagnetic clutch and got confused over which one to get and just never did.



    Thanks for any imput.
     
    SDrake , Jun 25, 2010
    #6
  7. MStearns

    It is Horton's Diesltemp EC450 Electromagnetic Fan Clutch. I can't remember where I ordered if from, it has been so long ago. The instruction manual says on the front "for Dodge Ram Pickup with R134A refrigerant. " It is activated manually, by temperature or by A/C pressure.
     
    MStearns , Jun 25, 2010
    #7
  8. mickeyblueyes

    So I am having some troubles with my air conditioning , it was about 100 degrees and the thing started blowing hot air? now how do I know if this is a blend door problem or being stuck on the Cross Bronx Expressway? I have a stock fan .
     
    mickeyblueyes , Jun 25, 2010
    #8
  9. DieselDoghouse

    I would think you would need to check AC pressures when this is happening (when you're stopped). Also, if its that hot and your AC is blowing hot - what's you fan doing?? It should be locked-up like Cessna on take off or your fan clutch may be bad and that (failure to move air through the condenser) may be your root cause.
     
    DieselDoghouse , Jun 25, 2010
    #9
  10. JohnBoy5

    I think horton discontinued the EC450 for the Dodge Ram. BUT if anyone finds where they are sold please post something on here!
     
    JohnBoy5 , Jun 25, 2010
    #10
  11. Bob Cochran

    For those that have AC blowing hot air unless the fan is engaged you might consider cleaning the outside of the radiator and inter-cooler. That has fixed a lot of these problems. I need to do mine just have not got around to it.
     
    Bob Cochran , Jun 25, 2010
    #11
  12. WDixon27

    i added a electric pusher for my ac and it did wonders for my system (not exactly falling apart with a new not rebuilt compressor, cleaned several pounds of crap off the evap and straightened/cleaned condenser, new stock fan clutch too) it gets cold faster and stays cold during extended idling



    [​IMG]#ad




    its a bosch fan from a late 80s early 90s mercedes (i have a few if anyone wants one, i can put together the relay setup i made too) i added a resistor to it for a low speed to run triggered whenever the compressor is running, and a high speed setting i can trigger with a switch for whatever like if i am stuck in traffic or going to be idling for a while and want everything i can get out of the ac system, triple digits is common around here



    i used existing holes in the core support and made simple brackets, the bottom one is off the bumper reinforcement and the only hole i drilled, it hides under the bumper cover



    [​IMG]#ad




    one hole was on the condenser



    [​IMG]#ad




    i added a couple washers under the grill mounts to tip the bottom out a little to clear the motor



    [​IMG]#ad
     
    WDixon27 , Jun 26, 2010
    #12
  13. SDrake TDR MEMBER

    I know the fan would help. I suspended a fan in front of mine when I redid the evaporator (under the dash) and installed a new compressor. While I had the gauges on it I turned the fan on and was startled by how almost instantly the high pressure gauge dropped in pressure. And then when I checked the thermometer in the air conditioner outlet on the drivers side it slowly dropped about 10 degrees.



    I had a fan that looks similar to your Mercedes fan but it must be a little thicker. It looked like I needed a good inch more room. I am going to take another look to see if your trick with the mounting the grill will get it tucked in there. I sure sould like to have it blow cold while idling in traffic.



    the electric clutch for the regular fan would be ideal though.
     
    SDrake , Jun 26, 2010
    #13
  14. mickeyblueyes

    that is why I love this web site. i was about to tear into a blend door fix job and I learned this problem exists. When mine stopped blowing cold air I did see it was running 20 degrees hotter than normal. 200 instead of 180. I am sure my front is clean but in will get the hose out anyway. Could anyone else add in the difficulty of adding in a electric fan in addition to stock. Wire to where ect:?
     
    mickeyblueyes , Jun 26, 2010
    #14
  15. WDixon27

    wiring in a relay to run the fan is easy (i got a little complex with mine as i have a two speed relay controlled by another relay bumped off the compressor circuit for automatic low speed with the compressor, and added a resistor for low speed on a fan that didnt come with one) just remember to use big enough connectors and wires to handle the load, figure in at least 30 amps for a big fan like mine. i i don't worry about the HP draw of a clutch fan as it really is only going to engage when needed, thats half of the point of a viscus clutch over a direct drive, the bimetallic strip controls it and usually keeps it off when not needed
     
    Last edited: Jun 26, 2010
    WDixon27 , Jun 26, 2010
    #15
  16. GAmes TDR MEMBER

    I would be afraid that a fan that size would impede air flow thru the radiator and intercooler at highway speeds. Do you tow very often?
     
    GAmes , Jun 27, 2010
    #16
  17. WDixon27

    not a ton but it does happen, two things, the blades can freewheel in the airflow when not being used and if it is hot it will be running anyway, at worst i am blocking a doughnut sized part on the condenser which is a good 4-5" forward of the radiator with the motor, i always have the option of kicking it into high too which may or may not add to airflow depending on road speed



     
    WDixon27 , Jun 27, 2010
    #17
  18. Hammer TDR MEMBER

    Hammer , Jun 27, 2010
    #18
  19. charlessmith

    I agree with Andy. I've got these on my '96. I picked up 1. 5 MPG to 2 MPG depending on the driving. The in-town mileage picked up the most. Yeah, there have been once or twice when I've seen a little more heat and have backed off a little. This was probably in the mountains with my 5000# camper in the bed and when I was running 68 - 70 MPH. An example is the really long hills east of San Diego run in the summer. I don't do that very often, so having to back off a little is no big deal.

    If you want to figure out the benefit, just pull your fan blade off for a while (when it's cool outside). Then watch your mileage and acceleration times for a while.
     
    charlessmith , Jun 27, 2010
    #19
  20. Deezal Man

    Adding to the 'for what it's worth' file. Living in the northeast, I used to remove my fan in fall, winter and early spring months (minimal towing).



    Being the analyst that I am on everything AND that I was HOT for a Horton years ago, I'll share my experience and 2 cents on the subject. Take what you will from it.



    In 'theory' a Horton should return approximately a +1 mpg improvement. Assuming you paid $700 for the unit and you pay ~$3. 00 a gallon for Diesel (Sake of conversation), fuel savings would allow you to break even in 75k - 90k miles. For many of us, that's a very reasonable payback and justifies the cost.



    Here's the catch to the marketing hype.



    (1. ) Warm Temperatures: Since we all live in various climates I'll say it this way. Anytime you have the A/C or Defrost turned on, a Horton could actually decrease your MPG because it engages 100%. Whereas the factory clutch will adjust its engagement based on temperature.



    (2. ) Cold Temperatures: My testing proved that the factory fan was not required for anything colder than ~50 degrees (Empty). Because of this, factory fan would not engage but still includes some % of drag Horton engagement would be 0% with a theoretical drag of 0%.



    (3. ) Towing: The fan will likely be required in any temp under load. Because of this, it is difficult to determine which would yield better MPG numbers. Again, getting back to the % engagement of the factory clutch vs. 100% engagement of the Horton. Either way, I doubt the numbers would be significantly different. Winner: Debatable, based on useage and climate.



    (4. ) Factory fan will constantly adjust engagement based on temp and therefore allow the engine to realize more constant temps. Horton is an on/off device and will allow the engine temp to cycle. Winner: Not sure there is one because I have no evidence to suggest one is better than the other (Generally speaking, constant always wins over variable)



    My own personal assessment is that a Horton's true payback resides with someone who lives in a colder climate and tows less than 50% of the time. Anytime the Horton engages, your savings calculator not only stops but is likely spinning in the opposite direction due to the 100% engagement factor.



    So am I saying a Horton is a waste of money? Not necessarily. As with anything, it depends upon your situation and usage of the device. Either way, make sure you understand the variables and real world number before you fall for the marketing claims.
     
    Deezal Man , Jun 29, 2010
    #20
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