68 rfe fluid and filter change

I’m new to the diesel truck world and have recently purchased a 09 Mega cab 4x4 with 68 rfe. It has 150k miles and I do not know the service history so I’ve been changing fluids and filters. I’m wanting to change the fluid and filters in the transmission. What are you thought and experiences?

 

I change my transmission filters and fluid every 40,000 miles, I tow heavy and I feel this will prolong the transmission life. I do have the deep dish Mag-Hytec transmission pan on my transmission also. So, this adds about 2.5 QRTS of transmission fluid to the transmission. A couple of other members have posted that they have achieve over 200,000 + miles of trouble free service of their transmission by changing the fluids per Dodge/Ram maintenance schedule.

You will need two filters for your transmission one is a spin on filter and the other is the normal transmission filter. I do purchase all of my filters from Geno's Garage which is this site sponsor for TDR.

 

• Use fluid that is labeled as being ATF+4 (not "compatible with" ATF+4 or "recommended for" ATF+4).
• Use Mopar filters
• HAND-tighten the spin-on filter (like you would a spin-on engine oil filter). Just snug it up 1/2 to 3/4 turn BY HAND after the gasket touches the case. Do not overtighten or you can crack the threaded plastic snout.
• Check the old seal (in the pump housing) for the primary (flat) filter. If it's not damaged / cut, and is still tight and secure in its bore, just leave it there are re-use it. It's easy to mis-install a new seal (leaving it cocked in the bore, which will give problems!) so it's best to just leave it be if it's OK. The new filter will likely come with a new seal but you don't have to replace it.
• If, however, you DO replace the seal, (1) DON'T leave the old seal in place and just stick the new seal on the filter snout (two seals will NOT work right), and (2) tamp the new seal into the pump bore so that the metal flange is FLUSH against the pump casting all the way around.
• Measure how much old oil you drain out, then add that much new fluid back in (normally it's about 7-1/2 to 11-1/2 quarts, depending on how long you let it drain for). Draining overnight (with the filters removed) will get the most oil out of the converter. When checking the dipstick, WAIT at least 5 minutes after you add any oil before re-checking the level. It takes a LONG time for the fluid to run down off the inside of the tube. So go take a break for a while (you can turn the engine off) and then come back later and check it (with engine running).

 

I did the exchange method popped the line at the front of the truck let it run til sputtering and add what came out wash rinse repeat til bright fluid comes out. Give 100% fluid change.

 

Amazon is probably the cheapest place to buy the filter bundle. Comes with both filters, replacement o-ring, and a tube of RTV. $42 free shipping and no tax. Have ordered two sets for my 2011 68RFE. 4X4's require different filters than 4X2's because of pan. I let mine drain overnight and used just over 10qts. I buy 13 qts and change the transfer case and power steering fluid at the same time since my 2011 requires ATF+4 for all three. As mentioned, leave the old o-ring in place if it is in good condition. Requires a special tool to remove or a lot of improvising and headache. I've found Advance Auto has a Castrol ATF+4 sale a couple times a year, 2qts for $11. Hard to find a cheaper price unless you go with Walmart Supertech.

 

Walmart Supertech ATF+4 is just fine. It meets or exceeds manufacturer's specs.
I use it for my fluid changes.

 

Recommend reading all of TransEngineers postings over the years. Wealth of information.

 

Supertech ATF+4 is currently $4.27 a qt, great price for a fluid that meets the spec just like any other.

 

This only applies to 2009 and earlier (plus some 2010) models. In 2010 we changed to a common pan (that uses the 4x4-style filter) for all 68RFEs. So if you have a 2011 or later (and probably also if you have a 2010), use the 4x4 filter (even for 4x2s).

 

16 ram 2500 68rfe

Just did a trans fluid and filter change. Now I have codes. Fluid lvl is where it needs to be. Truck drives well.
P0841
P0868
Also interestingly I have codes for the turbo actuator that I had fixed 2 weeks ago. Were not there when I shut off the truck to do trans fluid and filter.
I've tried clearing the codes with the Torque app and bluetooth scanner. Says they're cleared but they never clear. Going to pull neg cables in the AM
Anyone have any thoughts or input?

 

Odds are one of your filters is screwed up. Drop the pan and check the filters. See my post #3 above. Also make sure the tip of the snout of the main (flat) filter is pushed up THROUGH the seal in the pump (not just resting against it).

 

And......this is why I bought a pan with a drain plug. Ugh

 

I have been buying Mopar ATF+4 on ebay for less than what I can find aftermarket atf+4 oil locally. When ever I see a sale on atf and motor oil I stock up whether it is needed or not.

 

kjg26, did you ever solve the problem with the trans code and actuator code? I had a similar issue that did not surface until about 5K miles after a trans filter/fluid change, and the code would come and go. Both codes would clear themselves. I have added a battery tender during the weeks of down time and the problem has not resurfaced.