2012 Ram stock radio / clock quit

I have a 2012 Ram 3500 ST.

Clock went blank while driving (but radio worked fine...) - tried to set time - screen said = "Clock Unavailable"

Got home shut truck off.

Next morning Radio and clock not working. Un-hooked batteries for an hour - re-hooked - still no radio or clock.

I'll check the fuse... but I think it runs other things I would notice that wouldn't be working.



Any ideas?

 

How old are your batteries?
When my batteries on the truck are starting to go, bad low voltage and age out all sorts of weird electrical issue start to happen. Such as the outside temps will not displayed/overhead display will not work and so forth. I have also loss radio presets and the CD would not eject with bad batteries. Mine usually last about 5 to 6 years before they need to be replaced. I would also look at all of your ground wires and the battery connection to the batteries, to ensure they are clean and tight.

Just a suggestion, also your radio may be on the way out too. Although my truck radio is still working on my 08 with no issues.

 

Batteries are brand new (2 months...)
Probably the radio.
Might spend $100.oo for an E-Bay used unit...???
New radios are like $400.oo

 

Go to a dealer, reset the head unit first.
Maybe that's all it needs.

If I remember correctly it could be done by yourself with a combination of pressing buttons but I don't know.

 

UPDATE CRITICAL FAILURE

NOW I HAVE A TIPM FAILURE - I THINK????

CHECK OUT THIS VIDEO-

 

It might not be the TIPM. A lot of the things you are seeing are similar to when I had a AISIN Transmission Control Module go out. These truck have a lot of modules that talk across the CAN-BUS. I would try removing your radio and see if that clears up the other gremlins before ordering anything.

 

Check your battery grounds...there is one wire just behind the battery that caused my gauges to go haywire.... it came loose intermittently.... your battery gauge is working but low (that may be the battery warning on the display)... it should be straight up when the truck is running...I am curious as to the red light as well...

 

The little red light should be the security system light.

 

2nd UPDATE -

I charged the batteries over night - and everything worked - (except the FOB took several times of turning it to "start" before the starter kicked in???)

I started it a few times (cold motor = 36 degrees) and the heater grid kicked on every time - after a few starts the clock quit again.

I'm thinking alternator (my truck dash gauge shows 14 volts...)

Taking it to a shop tomorrow (if I make it there after charging the batteries before I leave = 15 miles...

Hopefully it is the alternator...

 

Could be the alternator or loose belt...my gauge shows 14 volts (i dont' think the gauges are very accurate, as long as it is straight up that should be normal)... good luck, there is a reason why "Auto Electric" guys are crazy expensive!

 

Can you even find any "Auto Electric" guys anymore?

 

Charged the batteries again - and the clock works again. Hopefully I make it to the shop and its either batteries or the alternator.

 

I would suspect one, or both, of your new batteries is bad or there is a loose connection on one of them.

It's easy enough to tell the state of the alternator with a volt meter and the engine running. >12.7 volts after 5 minutes of operation and the alternator is working, at least somewhat, and it's more likely a battery but not always.

 

Double check the voltage running is the same on both batteries to make sure the crossover cable is good.

 

On a side note, I had installed two new batteries on my truck last year. They were dead in 4 months and would not start my truck they were under 10 volts. It turned out that one of the batteries had a positive post that was not properly seated in one battery. This took out the second battery as they would not charge properly. I could only get warranty on one battery, but I did replace both of them at the time.

As John stated it is very easy to check on the output voltage of your alternator to ensure that the alternator is working correctly.

 

Dino, he used to work for Lietner Auto Electric in Mt Vernon, WA. I have had him rebuild starters and alternators. He also is good at carbs. He works out of his little shop. Getting way up in years.

 

UPDATE...

The truck was going crazy this morning when I fired it up. I drove the 15 miles to the shop with the gauges and various dash warning lights coming on and off / as well as the gauges and dash lights / and wipers / and headlights. It was like a blinking and "dinging" Christmas tree.

It seemed to get better the warmer the engine got...

However once I got to the shop - it started acting normal.... HUH? = *%$#@

The batteries checked out good individually - the cross cable is good / the alternator checked out good.

There were a list of codes - but nothing to identify an absolute culprit.

We cleared the codes and I took it for a 1/2 hour drive (hwy and in town = stop and go)

It is working perfectly normal.

There was rain the day after the clock quit - which is the day the Christmas tree behavior began.

Going to look into the TIPM and for other possible connection problems...???

 

I can't find Lietner Auto Electric online, maybe they are long gone. I was excited for a second, not that far away from us. When you try to search for "auto electric" all the regular mechanics come up. I can usually manage carbs myself.

 

If you think water has an influence - open the hood, let it run, and spray water spot by spot till you might find where the location is to act up.

 

sorry I should have mentioned they are long gone.