'09 2500 EGR issue / question

My EGR keeps throwing codes. I took the actuator off the valve to inspect. The valve moves in and out freely by hand, but the actuator seems to not be reacting as it should. I was told that the actuator should cycle in and out when the key is turned on. Mine either just moves a tiny bit or does absolutely nothing. I am guessing that this would indicate the actuator is faulty. Am I testing this thing correctly?

The parts places I have contacted only sell the EGR as a complete assembly. The truck is registered in an area that requires emission testing so I can't just do one of the popular delete kits. I really don't want to replace the whole assembly if I don't need to. Does anyone have an actuator they want to get rid of that they know is functional?

 

What's the code it's throwing?
Chances are it's the actuator bit if the code shows a short then it could be a wiring issue instead.

 

I’ve never heard of an EGR Valve being sold in pieces, from anyone.

 

That right there seems to be my problem. The valve itself on my truck is free and appears clean enough. The electrical head unit does not seem to be controlling it correctly. I am just being cheap and not wanting to spend $1000 for the complete EGR assembly. Other companies like GM use very similar electronics on their valves, and they are available as a serviceable part for about $150 new.....

 

I'm getting these codes:
P0489 (ECM detected EGR electrical fault)
P042E (EGR stuck open)

I was hoping someone on here might have an actuator that they took off working when they did an EGR delete......

 

It could be the egr valve isn't closing all the way or the actuator is drawing too much power to move.

The P0489 code is for too much current to move the valve piston or the piston not returning to the fully closed position.

The P042E code means the valve is stuck open and the ecm sees an increase in egr recycle gas temperature when it shouldn't.

Two things to check.
First, make sure the egr valve piston travels all the way out to the stop. If not the pull and clean the valve.

Second, grab the actuator plunger and move it in and out. It should take moderate force to move it and you should feel the gears working inside smoothly while it moves.
If it hangs up or skips then it's probably a bad actuator as you said.

I'm hoping the valve just needs cleaned as a bad actuator is pretty rare.

BTW, when's the last time you did the 67,500 egr service?

 

Thanks for the reply..... The valve appears to move freely stop to stop when pressing on it manually. I pulled the actuator rod out and cleaned the threads on it. When I put it back together I got a blip in and out as I cycled the key, but certainly not full travel. It wasn't moving at all prior to that.
I am guessing that the 67500 service you mention would be a removal and cleaning of the valve? Truck has about 100k on it, and I don't know if that has ever been done. It had been dealer serviced prior to me getting it at about 80k miles.

 

The plunger doesn't cycle full stroke at key on. It moves until it contacts the piston and measures the difference between that measurement and the prior one.
It also performs this same measurement during normal driving.

With that said, you should see more than a blip.

I would post another thread with your request for an actuator. Only members reading this thread will see you need one and you'll get more responses by doing so.

I have one but it won't do you any good. I cut the contacts off for a stealth egr delete years ago.

BTW, you can unplug the actuator and run this way until you find what you need. You'll have a code but it will disable the egr in the mean time.

 

Figured I should post an update....

Last week on the highway at about 65mph going to work, the truck starts to buck and smoke like a freight train. I was in traffic and had to push it as power dropped and max speed became about 40mph. Check engine light comes on....then the overhead warning system...then the "GO DIRECTLY TO DEALER" "DPF FAILURE" and something else.....

Anyhow, I nursed it to where I could get off the highway. Pulled the codes.... all basically related to the EGR and other systematic stuff most likely from that. I pulled the electronic actuator off the valve and yanked out the piston and spring, then manually made sure the valve itself was free and closed all the way. Screwed the actuator back on the valve without the piston, and cleared the trouble codes. Made it the rest of the way to work alright except for a pretty choppy idle (probably from the partly clogged DPF). I drove it home that night rolling at a consistent 65mph for 30 miles in 4th gear to keep the RPM up high. I think that was all I needed to blow out the DPF to being functional again.....

I live in a state that enforces the emissions stuff really hard. The next day I went to the local parts place and purchased a new EGR assembly. Cost right at a grand all said and done. Took me no more than 15 minutes to install. Decided I might as well do the oil and filter also while I was working on things.....

That was it. No more problems with the truck at this point. Really sucks that the EGR actuator on these trucks is not a replaceable part. The valve itself was in fine shape...

Hope this helps someone else out with their truck at some point....

 

Sorry you couldn't find a used actuator.
At least it's fixed.
BTW, keep the old valve. It's nice to have spare parts.
Thx for the update.