Fuel Starvation Problem

Whenever I'm more than a couple hundred miles from home, I have all filters needed in the toolbox, just in case. You never know when the WTH moment will happen! The extra filter on my transfer tank sure helps with the "fuel" issue that could crop up. I've got a fuel meter on the transfer tank to keep track of fuel through the filter which is also a water blocking filter! I'm with others in dropping the tank for a full clean out. Then keep up with proper maintenance of storing your fuel for long periods. Had plenty of practice with storing fuel prior to getting the 3500 do to having a couple compact diesel tractors since '05. The truck is much more sensitive then the tractors fuel systems. Now just use the tank on truck to fill tractors with to help with fuel turn and converted the prior tank back to handle road fuel and when $ is right and will be traveling shortly afterward. It hurts the wallet to get between 100 - 150 gals fuel!

 

I wonder if it is possible to clean the fuel tank in situ? https://fueltecsystems.com/?gad=1&g...qYmOivedRg5dD8lP56G5JQEMyIhRtQq8aApRGEALw_wcB

 

You’ll be better off to drop the tank or pull the bed.

 

This thread and another on Cummins Forum at https://www.cumminsforum.com/threads/fuel-shut-off-solenoid-fss.569868/ have been very helpful to me while troubleshooting the no start issue I've been having. I wanted to add to the conversation in case it might help someone else.

My truck (1996 Gen II 2WD, 358k on the clock) wouldn't start. I found that the boot that covers the plunger assembly had rotted away, apparently long ago. What happend in my case was that the adjustment portion of the plunger assembly had come out of it's socket, so that when I tried to start the engine, the plunger pulled up as usual but the adjustment rod end didn't follow along, keeping the fuel shut off. Initially I thought the issue was the missing boot but a new boot didn't fix the problem. As it turns out, there's a split ring spring that holds the adjustment rod inside the plunger. When the solenoid is assembled, the adjustment rod is pushed insied the plunger against an internal, very stiff, spring. The hole that the adjustment rod fits into has an internal taper followed by an internal groove. Pushing the adjustment rod into place causes the taper to compress the split ring spring until the spring encounters the groove, at which time the spring opens slightly, snapping into the groove and locking the adjustment rod inside the plunger.
Once I discovered this, I tried to get the split spring to snap back into it's groove to no success. I noticed that the split spring was worn on one side, so I carefully pulled the split spring from the adjustment rod & turned it over so the not worn side might engage with the groove and hold the assembly together...no joy.
So, it's off to O'Reilly Auto Parts for a new solenoid (https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/...utomotive-truck-1996-dodge-ram-2500#addToCart) . I guess with 358k on the odometer I can't complain about another $112 dollars.
I've uploaded photos to show what I'm describing above...I hope it's helpful. #ad
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One more photo of putting the split ring back onto the adjustment rod. #ad