1. raxley

    Hi,
    I took the vaccum pump and the other things bolted to it off and replaced the gaskets and checked the vacuum pump vanes, etc.
    It is not leaking from there. It's leaking from the bottom of the steering box. Power steering fluid is used up close to a gallon a week, and I don't drive that much.
    It is leaking around the spllined shaft in the picture. I didn't notice anything holding that big nut that attaches the steering knuckle (if that is the right term) to the steering. Can I just put a big wrench on this, or is there something else holding it on?
    Any advice much appreciated

    steer pic 1.jpg #ad


    steer pic 2.jpg #ad
     
    raxley , Jun 14, 2024
    #1
  2. BigPapa TDR MEMBER

    upload_2024-6-14_20-53-8.png #ad
     
    BigPapa , Jun 14, 2024
    #2
  3. Ozymandias TDR MEMBER

    The nut isn't the problem aside from a lot of torque, getting the arm of is the killer most of the time.

    And if the shaft has play the bearing needs to be replaced at the same time otherwise a new seal kit won't help.
     
    Ozymandias , Jun 14, 2024
    #3
  4. Signal73

    It looks like there is a drip up by the input shaft which could be leaking as well.
     
    Signal73 , Jun 15, 2024
    #4
  5. GAmes TDR MEMBER

    Most parts stores have a loan tool program for a pitman arm puller after you remove the nut and washer.
     
    GAmes , Jun 15, 2024
    #5
  6. raxley

    I think that is where wind is blowing it when I drive. (GAmes)
    When/if I replace the seal, do I hammer (or carefully tap, or heat up and carefully tap) on? Thanks for the nomenclature clarification too.
    Does anybody know if this is the Saginaw 800 or Saginaw 605? It's a 1994 2500 automatic. I guess I can get serial number off engine to find out, correct? Directions.jpg #ad
     
    raxley , Jun 15, 2024
    #6
  7. raxley

    Is this right or am I indulging is wishful thinking?
    I take off the nut, and the Pitman arm, and I can replace the bottom seal and rubber gaskets?
    Doesn't seem too hard.
     
    raxley , Jun 15, 2024
    #7
  8. Ozymandias TDR MEMBER

    You should see it immediately as the two look totally different just from the schematics.
     
    Ozymandias , Jun 15, 2024
    #8
  9. raxley

    Are these gearboxs sold rebuilt (or new?) Geno's doesn't have my year. They do have a upgrade for greater pressure ~$800, but I don't have any problems I'm aware of for that. Why would this be necessary?
    These things don't wear out, do they? With lubrication, I don't see how (but I'm a carpenter, not a mechanic) I'm just wondering if the cost for rebuilding (seals for the two shafts + labor) is going to approach the cost of a complete rebuilt one.
    Has anybody here replaced the seals? Is it a "bear"?
     
    raxley , Jun 22, 2024
    #9
  10. raxley

    raxley , Jun 22, 2024
    #10
  11. Ozymandias TDR MEMBER

    Yes they wear out from all the beating they get down the road and need replacement after some time.
     
    Ozymandias , Jun 22, 2024
    #11
  12. NIsaacs

    NIsaacs , Jun 22, 2024
    #12
  13. Ozymandias TDR MEMBER

    Please do not rebuild a steering gear if you don't know perfectly how to do it properly. This is not a DIY object for the shade tree mechanic.
    If that fails there are more life's in danger then just the driver itself.
     
    Ozymandias , Jun 22, 2024
    #13
    Topzide and Cummins12V98 like this.
  14. Matt42 TDR MEMBER

    2nd and 3rd Gen steering boxes get the living snot beat out of them. So yes, they wear out.

    Agree. If you can source a new and upgraded replacement that uses two bearings, it'll last much longer and will also cut down on wandering.
     
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