Grid heater

Black Market now also offers an air horn with egr ports and provision for the DIH4 grid heater.

 

Thank you, Mr. Donnelly,
I went and looked at that. I’m wondering now, after adding the intake plate, air horn, and heater, if the Banks kit comes at a good price point. I have it priced at $968 for my rig, with raw coloring.

I am wondering as well, is there benefit in the air horn upgrade if I am not putting any further upgrades on the truck? The added flow should only help and no matter how low/high the risk is in losing the bolt into the cylinder.

Any thoughts on this? I do have a warranty but this should not affect that. It is ASE warranty and not a Chrysler.

Thanks Joe, and All.
Scott Solem

 

Thanks much Cerb.
$250 is an appreciable savings for sure and the truck, stock, does everything I need it to.

 

Take a look at Issue 120 pages 102-104, The Rest of the Story, for a review of the banks unit. Bottom line, special #1 fuel line required and no noticeable performance or fuel economy gain.

 

And, if you look at my review in the magazine, you will see that there may be no need to change out the intake plate which involves a lot of extra work. The Banks also requires removing the engine cover and other hassles as Stan reported. The heater is about $50 on amazon.

 

I recently renewed my subscription, so I don’t think I have access to any electronic version, magazine back issues and so can’t see your review or the article. I appreciate you summing up the review. I recall you (or someone) stating earlier in this thread you (they) may not remove the plate. I see there is quite a bit to remove to get the plate out. I’m actually OK with that, so if it’s not required, it can come off the truck. I haven’t fully decided what I’m going to do yet, but if I swap it all out with the Black Market stuff, I’ll relay my experience and thoughts on it. Presently, I’ll get the P2609 code resolved.

Thank you, Joe
Scott Solem

 

So, if I put the horn on the heating element ends up back downstream of the EGR correct? There is just something wrong with having a soot filled intake, isn’t there?

 

The only thing you have with a large intake is more turbo lag.
This is not a naturally aspirated engine. Especially the VGT engines run almost always with positive pressure inside the intake, forced into the cylinders. There is no need for more room on a stock engine.
If that horn would need a larger diameter it would have a larger diameter from the factory. It cost exactly the same to cast it an inch wider or smaller.
Why does everyone want to be smarter then a thousand engineers in Indiana paid for to make that engine work at its best. Spending a billion Dollar to come to the point it goes into mass production.

 

So then - If I only put the pre-throttle body heater in from BM, do I abandon all the other “junk” in place….

 

Yep, I get that. This is what I’m thinking I’ll install and retain the stock intake horn and its emissions equipment. I presently live in Colorado and am subject to emissions inspection/testing.

https://blackmarketperformance.com/...-6-7-cummins-intake-air-heater-relocation-kit

The “junk” I’m referencing is abandoning the factory grid heater plate, and therefore the bolt, in place. My factory grid heater connection is still tight and the truck has roughly 62,000 miles on it. I’ll settle this debate in my head over the next few days.

If I swap the manifold plate, any suggestions that might make working with the #6 fuel line any easier? Recommended tools or the like? I put new injectors in my previous 5.9, but don’t really remember the challenge, except for the lifting bracket. I have watched some YouTubes as a refresher and the challenge with access comes up a few times. I don’t recall being able to get a torque wrench on that particular cylinder and that it was important to back up the tightening of line to the injector so as to not over-torque (?) the injector sleeve, but it worked out fine on the 5.9 injector swap.

Thanks.

 

So, tampering with the grid heater is a no-no if it comes to the emissions system?
Maybe @Turbo Terry should know that.

 

I think I may have created some confusion. I am not deleting the heater, only upgrading/relocating from the potentially problematic grid heater (and bolt) to a probe heater, therefore retaining a heating condition within the overall system.

I am assuming, maybe wrongfully, that if I migrate the power cable from the existing grid heater terminal to the new probe heater terminal that the new heating element will take the 200A + current and not throw a code. All other component remain in place and operable.

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I’m not tampering with the grid heater but I might disconnect it. Certainly would reconnect it if it went back to the dealer