Traction bar correct setup

All,

Now i know I am posting this in the wrong spot but I wanted answer from the the more experienced generation in regards to traction bars.

I have a set on my truck that are 72" long running heim joints that are the standard grade 1-1/8" 7 thread per inch and are extremely noisy if left unloaded, with a small mount of pre-load i get squeaking coming from my leaf spring bushings which tell me they are binding some. ( goes away when bars are off). How long should the bars be for a Crew cab short bed truck and should I switch over to johnny joints or upgrade to better heim joints?

Any help and advice would be grateful, I currently have the bars off and the brackets still on since they are welded. If I need to shorten the bars I can remove the frame brackets and re weld them to the new location.

 

46" is the proper length for 03+ trucks, it is based off the front half of the leaf spring ( Center pin to front mounting bolt) as that is where the front to rear movement comes from. 72" is way too long and will bind no matter what unfortunately.

 

Ok. So I should remove the front frame brackets, Lop off 26"s from the bars and then reweld the frame brackets back? and that would prevent the binding that I am having no matter what I do with these bars? Shorten them and pull the rear axle or lengthen and push the rear axle does nothing, cause the truck to buck wildly and without the bars everything is great except feeling the axle wrap when shifting.

 

Mounting them so that they pivot within the same arc as the front half of the leaf springs will help some
but traction bars will tend to bind no matter what.

I will try to post a short video later that will help show why/

 

OK thank you. I am wondering if i should just go without any traction bars or move on from these and spend the money on the caltracs instead that I have read so many good things about

 

Don't spend any money until I post the vids. LOL.

 

Oh I wont lol. I'll hold off. want to make sure its right this time. These were a gift but had to pay shipping and now have had nothing but issues since they did seem super long when I installed them.

 

I use Patton Fab bars and use my truck very hard off road, while there will be a little bit of bind I cant feel it and thats is running 14" of rear wheel travel. How it is mounted to the axle and frame will also have a big effect.

 

Front brackets are welded to the frame, axke brackets are welded at directly under the axle perfectly straight up from the ground. Was instructed to run jam nut all the way out to heim joint, thread each side in until 1/4" of thread is showing between the bar end and jam nut.

Install bars onto brackets and snug down by hand and then tighten up the jam nuts.

I've done that over and over and still get the above issues. Only way the issues seem to go away is it I take and spin the bars so that are getting shorter pulling on the axle towards the front of the truck, but then when towing it bucks so bad I have to spend time removing the bars all together.

 

If I'm just screwing this up and not destined to have traction bars please just say it so I can cut the brackets off and sell them cheap. Lol

 

Mine are as long and at the same angle as the rear driveline. Wouldnt be without them. Work well for my needs. I used the Moog track bar bushings for my application, they are preloaded a little. There are lots of opinions on traction bars.

 

Traction bars can be utilized for a couple different purposes. What exactly are you trying to accomplish in your application? Your answer would help with determining the correct length and mounting position.

 

I had them on my '94 way back. I mounted them with a fair bit of thread on the heim joints showing, then cranked them shorter to sort of wind up the leaf spring a bit. Can't remember exactly, but it seemed like I pulled the axle forward maybe an inch? The ride was a little firmer over bumps, but they never made a sound. The blocks between axle and leaf spring were stupid high, but these cured the wheel hop in sand and snow.

 

Found an old photo. Not sure what the length was, but they were big, long, and heavy.


https://flic.kr/p/27c9YuV
#ad

 

I want to add a bit to my last post on calculating the length of the traction bars. First off, one size does not fit all!

The first thing you need to know is the static arc of the rear springs. This would be determined by lifting the rear of the truck off the ground, with the loaded axle suspended by the shocks (at full extension). You would need jack stands under the frame rails or a lift to do this. Once suspended, measure the distance between the spring eyes and record this measurement.

Next, measure the distance between the front spring eye and the locating pin for the axle. This measurement would need to be calculated by pulling a straight line between the two spring eyes, and using a 90* square off that line, find the location of the centering pin. Using a square is important, so don't just eyeball the location.

While the line is pulled between the two spring eyes, measure the drop between this line and the bottom of the spring pack at the centering pin. Again, make sure you take the measurement at the deepest part of the arc, 90* off the line between the spring eyes.

We also need to know the overall length of the longest spring. This would be the length if straightened. You could either measure this with a soft tape or we can calculate the length mathematically.

The last thing you need to measure is the height of the lift block (between the spring pack and the axle pad.

After you have these measurements, you need to decide what you want the traction bars to do. Eliminate axle wrap? Stiffen the suspension a bit? Both?

With the above information, you can then determine the length of the bars, their attachment point location at the axle, and finally, the height of the front attachment point on the frame (in relation to the front spring eye location).

If you happen to have extended arch springs and/or longer than stock wheel travel, total wheel travel measurements would be needed as well to properly calculate your mounting locations.