Load Trail Gooseneck Dump Time.

Mine are manual release, I have not seen any electric ones. Do you know of some? I have not went to solar maintainers, I always just plug them in.

 

Thats the hardest one, nice shinny new paint...Then when it is 5 years old, anything goes.

15 yds fresh, wet, stinky horse manure, I got greedy, about 29K #ad

 

No I do not know of any.. I misunderstood your comment here

[EDIT] I messed up the quote function... "My helper runs the bed up/down with a wireless remote and trips the gate when I start moving.."

I am new to the dump trailer scene, so have some to learn. I like your conversion to electric on the drop leg jack, I may look into it.. for now I've done my best to break it in right with 6.3 TON to test the limits... all went well, as they say take it from the dealer to the quarry and rip the Band-Aid off.

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Nice trailer, I like the raised front with board brackets. Boards will not only give you some more capacity for light weight material, they are great protection from wayward loader operators (including me), whacking the top rail.

 

I can't lift my 120# spare up and down off my gooseneck dump, so I built a curb high, mount. I think it is going to be a life saver.

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Nice mod!!!

 

"Geno's to the rescue. Dinged my tailgate with my gooseneck dump, twice....grrr I think I have fixed the clearance issue. Drilled my hitch at 1-3/8" between the existing adjustments. I didn't want to move it 2.750" the oem holes in the hitch"

So, after this adjustment my trailer is high in the front, hate that.

To help level it out I modified my equalizer by flipping it end to end and mounting my springs in a different location. With a 2" rise on one end of each spring, I should net about a 1" lift on the trailer.

I do need to get new equalizers and center pin. The nylon bushing and pin is badly worn. This will work fine, until I get some parts and I can monitor the mod to see if all is well. I did turn the bushing and pin 180 degrees to get away from the worn spots. My rear spring slippers are getting thin, I will need to do something about that next.

First picture is oem, second one is the mod. Instead of the top of the equalizer as the front slipper, I have (3) 3/4" nuts and a washer on each side of them, clamped/supported by the bolt. That is my new slipper. The shinny bolt, I drilled and added, to insure the spring can't jump out of the equalizer.

 

So, I tackled my slippers on my dump, like I said, they are getting thin. Not a fan of this old school system at all. You would think they could upgrade to something better. For a home owner, they work fine, but for commercial duty, not so good.

So, I made some home grown bushings to take the place of the slipper. I just used some simple pipe nipples and pvc pipe to make a trial set, some R&D work If it works good and I think it will, I will order some heavy wall tubing and some standard trailer bushings and build a heavy duty set, but the design will stay the same. I will go with 3/4" ID x 1.5" OD, 3/8" wall. The oem bushings (9/16" IDx3/4" OD) and spring bolt (9/16") will work. Unlike the friction slipper, this bushing will roll with the spring movement. Repair will take about 10 minutes for the future.

I did have a struggle cutting the slipper out. I had to use my reciprocating saw because my grinder wouldn't fit inside the hanger. It takes two blades and a lot of time to cut that weld out. I did move up some on the hanger to move away from the hard welded location. It drilled pretty good. The actual spring mount location is the same as before.

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@NIsaacs, What about a bronze roller? Do you have a lathe or good drill press? I would think if you could make a bronze roller bushing and then have a greasable bolt to hold it would be the cats meow! On my mini lathe, I was able to make my bolts into greasable bolts instead of paying the price for pre made. Still a great fix for the problem. Just have to think outside the box on this stuff. If it's not one thing, then it's another! You just got the JD back together and then this issue. Hope you'll have some down time to enjoy!

 

Thanks for the comments top. Not much interest in tractors or trailers around here anymore. It is always good to get another's view point whether I agree or not. In this case I don't I am not a fan of grease, especially in suspension systems. Since the system is not sealed the dirt just mixes with the grease and eats up everything. Back in the day, trucks and trailers all had grease and were always worn out. Todays trucks last forever. Zerks get damaged, broken or plugged up. The grease pathway gets plugged up, the gun has air or the nozzle is worn out and ya make a mess My loaders and tub grinder keep me busy enough.

Dry bolts and nylon bushings are cheap, easy to source and replacement is quick and easy.

The left side tractor knuckle is all apart, washed and parts ordered. It was due for repair, one bearing, three gears and both seals.

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@NIsaacs, With the Derlin material, makes grease a thing of the past on applications that it can be used in! To each there own! Yes, it's nice to hear what another offers. Never now how it might trigger a different path to look at. Sometimes the two can be blened together for the fix!
It's funny to see your JD front knuckle torn apart on how similar to a Kubota I helped out on. I had mechanical knowledge with the extra tools needed and he had the brawn to tear it down! His had debris get in between the knuckle joint and tore up the seal! He is second owner, so may have happened from PO and he didn't notice! Caught before anything major got tore up!

 

I have all my parts to make permanent, my hoke slipper spring conversion, to roller. Smooth bore, heavy tubing (no welded seam) for the rollers, standard 9/16's spring eye bolts and 9/16's x 3/4" trailer suspension bushings. They are only 1.750 long and I need 2" so I had to cut some, to make them long enough, two piece. 2" is not available in the size I chose, that would fit the tubing size available. I did have to buy a new tubing cutter for the bushings, for some reason my old one (1970 model) cut too much well pipe and was dull

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@NIsaacs, Can't you just get a new cutter wheel? I've replaced mine and was surprised at how easy and clean of cut I got! Not saying that a new tool is a bad thing, but when you can also fix the old for such a low cost, why not do both?

 

Agreed. I took my old one in to Napa and asked about a cutting wheel and just got a blank stare, so I bought one.

Mine is a General tools, never heard of them. After researching, of all places, ACE has them. They carry, Superior, Rigid, Milwaukee and General. Thanks for the nudge.

Edit: I did some more research at Napa. The Carlisle cutting wheel is available for $16, the tool is on sale for $20, lol. I went with Balkamp, it has a carbide wheel for $21. ACE wheel is $8 so very reasonable.

 

Parts are installed on the trailer. Should be an easy repair in the future. Parts are easy to come by and very reasonable.

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Blew the soot out of the '91 Monday, 4x2 sucks, Lol Job sites are always difficult to navigate.

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4x2 just means it’s all slower the short engine run time one is on unpaved surfaces.

Granpa had workarounds.

Otherwise — for the non-commercial user (he who isn’t writing off as depreciation, etc) — lowest lifetime CPM is still the winner.

Could have bought and run two of mine for what a 4WD 3rd Gen CTD added for initial then lifetime total expenditure. Have run that spreadsheet several times.

Slower around the jobsite don’t hurt much, then. 4x2 in South Texas oilfield was the hardier choice (for example). Less downtime plus lower CPM.

If I lived where the sheriffs department exclusively ran 4WD, then it’s that same choice. Not otherwise.

Income-producing is one thing. Income offsetting is where pickups don’t live up to expectation despite fervent adherents.

Same pattern seen with those wanting to live rural and work metro. Lifetime transportation costs go thru the roof and it’s an easily-severed weak link.

Examination of convenience is what’s missing.

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In my case it means it wont do the job. It works fine from yard to yard. Customer delivery, nope. I live in the blow sand. A 6k lbs 4x2 is not going to pull an 8 ton dump trailer. Especially in reverse, that is geared for 20 mph, never mind no traction.

I know you are proud of your 4x2, Airstream and big trucks. Different application.

 

Put the '01 to work this week, driver in my '21. Other than the typical pillar blind spots on the Dodge/Ram, he really likes it.

The '01, I don't like it anymore It is rough, noisy, follows the ruts, bucks on launch and reverse and ya gotta shift it, Lol

Pros, it runs like a sewing machine, on level 3 it pulls with the '21, no problem. Exhaust brake and truck/trailer brakes work flowless. The material is really dry this fall so the weight is down. I have plenty of room for more, but I just stuck with my normal 10 yds, so about 23k.

Picked up two loads right at the livestock yard, the guys dump truck is broke down so he couldn't haul it to the dump site. His son was the operator, he is awesome, quick and precise, without being wild. We both had about 12 yds, but it was horse manure, so light and fluffy. Will haul again today.

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Delivered a load of saw logs yesterday, will deliver another one today. The guy has a nice setup.

I had to stop for the train Friday, so I took a picture of the Dinosaurs

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